Chimneys present a vulnerable possible leak stage on any roof, metal, built-up or otherwise. And flashing — impervious material put on the joint where the chimney meets the roof — provides the defense. On metal roofs, flashing goes over an ice-guard membrane. In principle, you put in flashing, counter-flashing and crickets as on another roof, with all the exception that you will be riveting or screwing metal panels rather than nailing shingles.

The Order of Battle

You are going to be breaking metal and cutting brick on this undertaking. A slot cut with a diamond blade at the masonry, at least 4 inches above the roof plane, accepts a bent slot at the top of the counter-flashing. Rivet or screw flashing at the front corners and the head — top of the chimney. Meanwhile, the counter-flashings go in second, pounded in their masonry slots, and sealed with sealant. Work from the base of the chimney to the surface. Add a cricket — also called a saddle — to divert water from a larger chimney.

A repurposed door produces an intriguing headboard, but hanging it on the wall might have you shouted. To make sure it stays where you need it to and doesn’t fall off and come crashing down on your mind, you must attach it through the wall’s drywall to the studs behind. This isn’t as hard as it sounds when you have the correct tools to do the job.

Position the bed in which you would like it at the room. Move it away from the wall during the headboard setup so you have access to the wall behind the bed. When you install the headboard, you wo not want to modify the bed’s place.

Place the stud finder on the wall at the edge of the bed. Move it gently and then make a mark when it signals the place of a stud. In standardly framed homes, studs are spaced 16 inches apart on center, leaving just 3/4 of an inch on both sides of the center of the stud. A two-by-four stud when cut really measures 1 1/2 ins by 3 1/2 in..

Measure from your very first mark across the wall, then placing a mark every 16 inches across the breadth of the bed for the amount of the headboard. Double-check these extra marks with your stud finder to guarantee the marks are about the studs. Adjust as needed, because the doorway headboard must attach into the studs at the wall to keep it from pulling.

Transfer these measurements to the doorway headboard — you would like to secure the screws straight through the doorway.

Predrill the wooden headboard with the power drill and drill bit to create holes for the screws in at least four locations at the very top and bottom of the headboard. This prevents harm to the timber when you add the screws and will keep the headboard flat against the wall. Eliminate the drill bit, and add the plug cutter attachment to the end of the drill that matches the magnitude of your wooden buttons. Sink the plug cutter to the very first predrilled place, centering it over the hole. Let it cut in the wood the depth of your wood buttons. Duplicate for every screw location.

Secure the door into the wall at the penciled mark locations, after ensuring it’s level. Place the degree atop the doorway at the center and at either end to verify that it’s level in which you intend to install it. Readjust as needed until the door is level. Insert the screws through the washers and through the doorway. Secure each screw into your stud. This step may require the guidance of someone to hold up the door, unless you have it securely propped up at several locations.

Dab a bit of wood glue on the back of the timber buttons. Tap each wood button to the plug-cut hole using the rubber mallet. Wipe off any glue that comes from the hole using a damp sponge, as you don’t need the glue to dry on the headboard.

Stain or paint the timber buttons to match the finish on the doorway headboard.

Schiller Grounds Care has been fabricating the Bobcat brand of consumer and commercial riding lawnmowers because the 1970s. The buckle on the Bobcat mower cutting deck demands periodic replacing as it will become worn or fragile. The cutting deck buckle on a Bobcat riding lawnmower is readily available, but it’s very important to take an image or pull a diagram of their belt routing to utilize as an reference when installing a new belt.

Park the Bobcat riding lawnmower and switch the ignition off key on the operator’s right side control panel beside the seat. Catch the Power Take-off button into disengage the mower deck blades. The button is on the ideal side of the operator’s control panel, just above the ignition switch. Pull up the parking brake lever to engage the brake; the lever is on the left side before the seat. Disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug. These actions stop the mower from moving or beginning as you work on the belt.

Unscrew the bolts from the floor pan using a socket. Lift the ground Flagstaff pan from the chassis by hand to acquire entry to the cutter deck belt and pulleys.

Lower the cutter deck to the center place to permit for belt elimination. Lift the cutter deck up; push the cutter deck lift lever forwards to the center place.

Find the cutter deck idler pulley through the floorboard opening; the pulley sits on top of the ideal side of the deck. Clip a very long 3/8-inch extension pub on a 3/8-inch ratchet wrench. Insert the extension square end into the square hole in the pulley arm.

Establish the ratchet wrench direction control knob to the “loosen” place. Expand the ratchet wrench fully to the left to swing the idler arm backward, relieving the belt tension. Hold the ratchet wrench with one hand as you slide the belt from around the idler pulley. Unthread the aged belt from around the remaining Power Take-off pulley, idler pulley and spindle pulley. Slide the belt out from the floorboard opening.

Fit the new belt around the Power Take-off pulley, inserting the side of the new belt fully into the pulley groove. Pull the new belt back, and track it around the left side idler along with spindle pulleys. Pull the new belt around the ideal side spindle pulley, and pull it tight toward the ideal side idler pulley.

Turn the ratchet wrench fully to the left to ease the ideal side idler pulley tension; hold the rhythm in position. Slip the belt around the idler pulley. Slowly release the hold to the wrench to tension the belt.

Set the floorboard on the chassis. Tighten the floorboard retaining bolts using a socket wrench. Start the mower. Engage and disengage the cutter deck many times to check for suitable belt surgery.