Leafhoppers on Tomato Plants

So many diseases can ruin tomatoes that it is a wonder they are among the most widely grown vegetables. Fusarium and Verticillium wilts, early and late blights, tobacco mosaic virus and Stemphylium grey leaf spot are all caused by fungal or viral pathogens that travel through ground or on the end. Several equally dangerous diseases are spread by a bug known as the beet leafhopper (Circulifer tenellus).


Beet leafhoppers lay eggs in open fields during cool, moist spring weather. Nymphs feed for a couple of months and develop to light green bugs, wider in the head than in the tail, but only about 1/10 to 1/8 inch long. Adult leafhoppers live just about 30 days, but migrate over long distances, landing in fields and strayed from plant to plant on long back legs. In California, beet leafhoppers produce several generations. They overwinter and lay eggs in foothill areas.

Curly Top

Leafhoppers get viral pathogens by feeding in affected regions and act as carriers of the disease. Curly top is just a group of diseases (curtoviruses) containing beet curly top virus, beet mild curly top virus and beet severe curly top virus. New strains of the light virus also have been identified by University of California at Davis researchers working with pepper plants inn Mexico. Although beets and other plants in the Chenopodiaceae family are the preferred targets, leafhoppers will resort to sampling tomatoes and other plants in the Solanaceae family. They feed on plants by piercing fresh leaf surfaces and sucking on plant fluids during long mouthparts on their heads, inoculating the plant with the virus since they feed. Affected leaves curl inward and disappear. Veins may appear as purple lines or the entire leaf may change color. Since the leafhoppers begin with tender new development, the disease spreads in the top of the plant, hence the title curly top.

Tomato Big Bud

Tomato big bud is brought on by a viresent agent transported, or vectored, by the beet leafhopper. The disease is brought on by a phytoplasma organism to a wide range of crops. Buds swell and produce small, misshapen fruit. Leaves are distorted and pale yellow-green in color, on stunted stems. Major bud but isn’t common in most regions since it takes large populations of leafhoppers to acquire a foothold in areas so succeeding generations can feed on affected plants.

Leafhopper Control

Rumors might not function as leafhoppers’ favorite targets, but it just takes one wayward, hungry leafhopper to spread disorder to a plant. One option for handling where leafhopper populations increase in late spring, might be to plant tomatoes far away from favored plants like beets, peppers and eggplant. Where leafhoppers are present but backyard space is limited, companion planting marigolds (Tagetes spp.) Or pungent plants, such as geraniums (Pelargonium spp.) , might repel the bugs. In rainy years, when leafhopper residents mushroom, systemic pesticides containing carbaryl, imidacloprid or dinotefuran may help control residents.

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Lemon Tree Growth

Lemon trees grace the home garden with their visual jewels of vivid yellow, citrus fruit that offer as much in flavor as they do in beauty. However, due to a variety of problems, from easily avoided physiological issues to serious diseases, trees may not develop to their entire potential. Monitor your lemon trees closely to prevent slowed or stunted development as well as the poor fruiting that often follows.

General Care

Providing optimal attention to lemon trees is essential for proper growth. Well-maintained plants have a greater ability to avoid and overcome health problems when compared with stressed plants. Lemon trees thrive in regions that provide sunlight. These trees endure a number of soil conditions and also have “a reputation of tolerating very infertile, very poor soil,” explains Purdue University Agriculture. But keep moist, well-drained land with a pH of around 5.5 to 6.5 for greatest growth. Avoid waterlogged conditions, as standing water decreases tree health.


Become knowledgeable about the lemon tree’s growth habits to avoid any confusion about whether the tree is growing well. Lemon trees usually grow to a height of 10 to 20 feet. Determine the ultimate height of the particular species and cultivar you’ve got. Until mature, these fruiting trees must grow at a pace of 4 to 12 inches per year. Leaves measure roughly 2 1/2 to 4 1/2 inches long, while fruit steps 2 3/4 to 4 3/4 inches long.

Physiological Issues

Growth problems may result from inferior cultural maintenance or uncontrollable cultural difficulties. High chlorine or sodium, as an example, may result in yellowed leaves and stunted development. Avoid growing lemon trees near swimming pools to prevent chlorination problems. Send a soil sample to a testing lab and create any suggested amendments. Fertilizing according to the laboratory’s suggestions helps prevent a nutrient imbalance. Proper watering is also critical, as drought and over-watering may both result in exponential development of roots and above-ground portions of the tree. Water lemon trees when the top layer of soil feels dry to the touch, as a rule of thumb.


Citrus greening is a bacterial infection which leads to isolated, yellowed areas on citrus trees. Spread by psyllids, this disease leads to dieback, defoliation, fruit fall, foul-tasting fruit and stunted growth. Speak to a county extension instantly because this disease is not yet widespread in the United States or California, as of 2012. Natural enemies, such as lady beetles, feed the psyllids that regulates the disease. Moreover, preventive sprays of a pesticide containing the active ingredient imidacloprid may provide control. Stubborn disease, brought on by the phytoplasma Spiroplasma citri, leads to stunted growth of the fruit and tree in addition to reduced or non-existent lemon yield. Remove and destroy trees, replacing them with healthy lemon trees.

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What Kind of Birdseed Won't Make Grass Grow?

Watching the antics of birds hopping on feeders and battling over seed is one of the numerous reasons to feed wild birds. Regrettably, if you choose the incorrect seed or don’t follow good feeding habits, then you may get a mess of weeds around your feeders. Birds know what they enjoy and will choose through seed mixtures to obtain what they want, leaving the discarded seeds to sprout. Choosing the proper seed may keep your garden tidy as you continue to feed your avian visitors.

No Waste Mixes

Most wild bird mixtures found in shops that don’t specialize in birdseed include an abundance of milo and millet. When some birds such as juncos and sparrows love millet, a number of other species will choose through, attempting to get to other items in the mix. Few birds eat milo. Since the birds choose through the mix, millet and milo fall to the floor and will eventually sprout into grass-like weeds. To avoid this, see a shop that specializes in wild bird food and decide on a mix specially designed for that which the birds in your area favor. The food may cost more, but considerably less will make its way to the earth to become a weed.

Sunflower Chips

Sunflower chips are hulled sunflower seeds which are chopped into bits. With the kernel hulled and chopped, the seed won’t sprout. Sunflower chips make an excellent feeder alternative since they’re one of the greatest seed choices by a variety of birds such as jays, woodpeckers, finches, grosbeaks and chickadees.

Cracked Corn

Cracked corn is composed of dried corn that’s split into bits. Unlike whole kernels of corn, the bits of cracked corn can no longer sprout. Jays, doves, quail, sparrows and even ducks are attracted to feeders which have cracked corn.

Nyjer Thistle

Though it appears to be a weed, nyjer thistle isn’t the standard thistle with the purple blossom that gardeners attempt to keep out of their yards. Nyjer thistle is a small black seed preferred by birds such as finches, juncos and pine siskins. Quality nyjer thistle is typically heated so it won’t sprout. In case a few plants do sprout, they seldom grow to a mature plant in North America.

Feeding Tips

Feeding your birds sensibly helps reduce seed waste and therefore can help control any likelihood of grass or other weeds growing under your feeders. Utilizing a bird feeder with a seed-catching tray under helps capture any discarded seed before it hits the ground. Providing one type of seed in each feeder can keep birds from picking through mixtures to come across the kind of seed they enjoy. In addition to seed, set out fruit, suet and hummingbird feeders to attract a wide selection of wild birds.

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Placing Central Air Conditioning at a house With Oil Heat Radiators

If yours is a home that does not have a forced air heating system, like residences with hot water radiator heat or wall registers, retrofitting a central air conditioning system can be a tough and costly proposition. In residences with forced-air heat ducts, you can install a central AC system and also spread cool air through the same ducts used for heating. But if your home lacks the heat ductwork, there are still ways to enjoy the advantages of centralized air.

Install AC Ducts

1 choice is to put ducts only for air conditioning. At retrofitting central air conditioning in houses with no existing forced air heating ducts, the evaporator coil and blower are installed in the loft area and rotating sheet-metal cooling ducts have been run into ceiling registers installed in minute- and also first-floor rooms. The condensing unit is installed outdoors, attached to the evaporator by sealed tube.

Duct Design

Normally, AC ducts for second floor rooms have been run across the loft floor and plunge down between loft floor joists to ceiling registers. In better than 90 percent of residences, air-conditioning ducts feeding first-floor rooms could be run down through second-floor closets to ceiling registers on the first floor. Most metal ducts are rotating, measuring 12 by 6 inches or 10 by 8 inches, so they don’t take up closet space.

Ductless Split System

Another choice is to install a ductless split program. In such systems, the condensing unit is set up outdoors, but feeds multiple evaporator fan components installed in numerous rooms. The evaporator units, installed one room, are connected into the condensing unit by sealed tube that carries the refrigerant. Every single evaporator has its own fan and thermostat, enabling you to set cooling levels separately for each room. These systems could be up to 30 percent more costly than traditional centralized cooling but are also good when you only want to cool specific rooms. Ductless systems that both heat and cool, are also available, which makes this a high-efficiency solution for complete climate control.

High-Velocity AC

You may also choose a high-velocity central air system. These systems utilize traditional heaters and evaporators but have a special compressor which distributes cooled air at high pressure and velocity through small, flexible, insulated ducts that can easily be run in which you want them, without having to rip out walls or ceilings. The insulated ducts are often as small as 2 inches in diameter, and also can provide cooled air to a room in up to 1,200 cubic feet per minute. The small ducts connect to curved chamber air outlets about 5 inches in diameter. Baffles in the ducts decrease noise.

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The way to put in a Roof Over an Existing Roof

Installing a new roof over an existing one, also called a *layover* or *nailover*, is frequently possible but not always the best choice. A correctly installed layover roof may look and operate and one installed after ripping the present roof and is typically more convenient and less costly. Although a lot of steel roof systems could be applied over an present roof, layovers are far more commonly done using asphalt shingles. **Pick a shingle style using the exact dimensions as those on your existing roof** to offer the best appearance.

Determine the Feasibility

Multiple layers of shingles may make it hard or impossible for the nails to penetrate the decking adequately, causing shingles to ignore or don’t seal properly. The additional burden of multiple layers may also be more than the roof facilitates could bear. Inspect your attic to get cracked or sagging rafters — a sign that a layover can cause much more damage. If you currently have multiple layers of shingles or signs of damage to your roof supports, you must prevent a layover. Some producers will not cover product failure if their shingles have been installed as a layover and some municipalities limit the amount of layers you may have.

Inspect the state of Your present Roof

The state of the existing roof is critical. The roof should be in sound condition without any unrepaired leaks. • Stand at street level and look for any dips or sags from the roof. This can indicate issues with the wooden deck or rafters supporting it. • Walk around the roof to find out if there are any places that feel soft or mushy. Soft spots are signs your decking needs to be mended or replaced. Whether there are a lot of soft spots, it is typically best to prevent a layover. • Look for shingles that have curled or cupped. You can trim or remove those shingles prior to applying a layover, however, your new roof will not be as even-looking and might have difficulties sealing properly.

Install Drip Edge

Drip border, or border steel, is a piece of steel that goes approximately 0.75 inch past the roof’s edge to channel runoff into your gutters. To install it, slide the flat, broad flange under the first row of shingles as much as it will go. Check to see that the bottom border is positioned over the gutter; if not, adjust the flange under the shingles until the drip edge is correctly positioned. Use a felt-tip marker to make a short line on the drip edge to signal appropriate position. Eliminate the drip edge and apply a thin strip of roofing cement at the very top border over the line you indicated and slide the drip edge back under the shingles into the mark you made. You may also use roofing nails to secure the roof edge.

Install Starter Strips

The first row of shingles is called a starter strip. You can either purchase starter strips or create your own by cutting shingles to dimension. To create your own, use the apartment, solid part of the shingles and a heavy duty knife knife to cut pieces that are around 5 inches wide. Place the top of each starter shingle firmly against the base of the shingle immediately over it and even with the eaves, then nail it into position. Use 1.5- or 1.75-inch roofing nails. Your second row of shingles must be cut to 10 inches wide. Butt these against the base of the old roof’s third row and nail into position.

Flashing and Additional Rows of Shingles

Flashing must be installed properly around elements, like vents or chimneys, that penetrate the roof, in addition to in valleys where different areas of the roof match. When doing a layover, the depth of the layers may make it hard to utilize any method aside from steel valley flashing. To install, line the valley with underlayment secured using roofing cement. Cut the flashing into 6- to 8-foot lengths to help prevent buckling following setup. Apply roofing cement into the rear of the flashing, then nail it into position, keeping all nails a minimum of 6 inches in the flashing’s centerline. The borders of the valley flashing should be under the new shingles. Continue installing the remaining shingles by butting each new row snugly against the base of the present row of shingles immediately above and nailing into position.

Finishing the work

Depending on the kind of shingles you’ve chosen, you might want to use a special sort of shingling substance, called *hip and ridge*, to cover the summit where your roof planes meet. If you are using three-tab shingles, however, you may cut shingles to produce your own. Use a heavy-duty knife knife to separate the shingles into thirds by cutting them at each tab. Mark the middle of each section and use a compass to mark 30-degree angles along the sides of each section from the end to the middle line. Cut along these marks to make a piece that looks like a trapezoid topping a rectangle. Folding each piece over the ridge and nail it into position. Nails must be set in the trapezoidal region formed by cutting the angles. Overlap each piece so the section without angles covers the trapezoidal location.

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My Tomatoes Are Wilting & Rotting on the Vine – What Is Wrong?

Biting into pieces of freshly picked, ripe, juicy strawberries in the garden is one of the great pleasures of life. You can’t help feel depressed and disappointed if your tomato plants wilt and the fruits rot on the vine. Common bacterial diseases, such as early blight, late blight and fusarium wilt, cause wilting and rotting of tomatoes. Tomatoes can also decay as a result of pests, diseases and ethnic problems. A common environmental issue encountered by home gardeners is blossom end rot.

Early Blight

Early blight on tomatoes is characterized by black and brown spots on stems, leaves and fruit. The fungus Alternaria solani causes early blight. The spots often form concentric circles and might develop a yellow surrounding area. Spots first appear on the older or lower leaves. The disease spreads from the bottom to the top of the plant. Overhead watering and cool, humid conditions favor disease progression and might cause severe damage to plants and fruits. To control or slow the disease, remove dead, infected foliage once you first visit it and then mulch around the tomato crops. Another way to control disease is to apply a copper fungicide every seven to 10 days.

Late Blight

The fungus Phytophthora infestans causes late blight on tomatoes, potatoes and other vegetables. The Irish potato famine illustrates the serious damage that this fungus may inflict. Late blight on tomatoes causes irregular, grayish green, purple or dark brown spots on stems and leaves. Areas expand and spread quickly and involve the emerging fruit. At times, whitish mould, containing the fungal spores, forms on the underside of infected leaves. Fruits develop brown and black lesions but stay firm. Late blight spreads rapidly during periods of high humidity combined with warm temperatures. The disease can destroy tomato crops within days. Remove contaminated plants and all plant debris near healthy plants to prevent the spread of this disease. Avoid overhead watering since it might help spread the disease.

Fusarium Wilt

Fusarium wilt impacts all parts of the tomato plant and is brought on by the soil-dwelling fungus Fusarium oxysporum. The disease starts with yellowing of leaf, usually on just 1 side of this plant. Wilting can spread to the whole plant even when sufficient soil moisture is available. Cutting open infected comes shows brown streaks. The disease blocks the transfer of water and nutrients from the roots to the rest of the plant. Although it is hard to rid the soil of fusarium wilt fungus, then you might succeed in case you solarize the soil. Solarization is a technique that increases soil temperature. It’s best to grow tomato varieties resistant to fusarium wilt if you know your dirt harbors the fusarium fungus. Tomato plants resistant to fusarium wilt are marked with one or more “F” on the tag.

Blossom End Rot

When isolating spots kind on the blossom end of ripening tomatoes, the condition is known as “blossom end rot.” It can start out as a small place, but it soon takes over almost all of the fruit. Blossom end rot is not caused by a pathogenic organism — it is brought on by environmental conditions that result in reduced levels of calcium and water in the fruit and plant. Tomatoes grown in sandy or low-moisture soils are prone to blossom end rot. Blossom end rot won’t be treated with any pesticide since it is not caused by a pathogenic organism. Avoid blossom end rot by checking the soil moisture of your planted tomatoes and water them when the soil gets too dry, but do not overwater. Adding tomato crust can help prevent blossom end rot by keeping your plants free and vigorous of nutrient deficiencies.

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Painted Paneling for Straight-Up Style

Paneling is one of the fastest ways we know of to add appeal and attention to the walls and ceilings in any room. However, if dark, manly dens and gullible libraries come into mind when you believe paneling, consider again. Rich wood paneling is ideal for creating that formal look, but if bright, airy and open are adjectives you’re attempting to conjure, don’t count paneling out. A coating of paint, or a few coats, can transform that wood into something which’s ideal for your property.

Borges Brooks Builders

If you like the look of white but occasionally find it dull, painted paneling can be an ideal enhancement. The white is sleek, clean and shiny, while the grooves at the paneling add interest and dimension, creating a space with loads of character.

Wendi Young Design

For the charm of painted paneling without committing to the entire room, put it in one spot. The paneling over this mattress adds focus to the focal point of the space and creates striking comparison to the walls surrounding it.

Whitten Architects

Painted paneling is a shore-house basic and, if you inquire, looks fabulous in colors that reflect the outside. Blues and greens conjure the sea beyond the window.

Whitten Architects

To get a space that has floor-to-ceiling paneling, making contrast with paint adds much charm. We’re huge fans of a blue that mirrors the sky.

Julianne Stirling

Paneling placed vertically and horizontally within this space adds visual attention and leaves the space feel more cozy.

Warmington & North

In newer houses, we love the way painted paneling creates the look of age. Coupled with tasteful decor, it is sophisticated and chic but can be equally relaxed when complemented with more casual decor.

Linda McDougald Design | Postcard from Paris Home

We love the architectural detail positioned behind the mattress — the ideal background for a gorgeous headboard.

Stonebreaker Builders & Remodelers

To get a look that is not as dim as stained but has more of a presence than plain white, tan is a good compromise. It is still warm but much less formal and looks terrific counter with accessories.

How to Update Cozy Wood Paneling
Beautiful Details: Wainscoting and Paneled Walls

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Peach Earwigs & Trees

Because they feed on aphids in some garden situations, earwigs are considered beneficial insects, but in trees they feed on the delicate fruit and cause substantial damage. The species of earwig that hurts peach trees would be that the European earwig (Forficula auricularia). The insect is all about 3/4 inch long and reddish brown in color. It’s easily recognized by means of a pair of appendages in the rear end.


Earwigs feed on fruit and tree leaves. Leaves may have signs and jagged holes around the edgesbrought on by caterpillars. To differentiate the harm start looking for webbing and frass, which is excrement that resembles fine sawdust. Both of these symptoms indicate that the problem is caterpillars and not earwigs. Fruit will have narrow gouges.


Trapping makes the usage of insecticides unnecessary and is an effective way to control earwigs. Cubes are made by low-sided cans like tuna or cat food cans with a half inch of oil at the bottom. Use vegetable oil or fish oil with a couple drops of bacon grease as bait. You can use pieces of tube such as sections of a water hose, rolled newspaper or cardboard; earwigs will come across these hiding places without the use of bait. Place the traps just before dark and empty them into a bucket of water in the daytime. Continue putting traps till you are no more grabbing earwigs.

Hiding Places

Practice decent sanitation to eliminate hiding places like fallen leaves, weeds and debris. Earwigs also conceal in mulches and groundcovers as well as ivies. Suckers that rise from the base of the shrub may also give refuge. Earwigs can hide in cracks and crevices in the bark of trees that are peach. From the lower trunk, carefully scrape off the loose, outer bark on trees.

Additional Controls

Earwigs conceal in cool places at night. In arid, Mediterranean climates, the insect is encouraged by irrigation practices. Water trees early in the day when earwigs find a moist hiding place so the surface of the soil around it and the tree have plenty of time. Coating the trunk of this tree with a substance designed to snare insects prevents earwigs from scaling the tree.

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How to Select a Table and Chairs for Holiday Hosting

The holidays are coming. Are you prepared for the throngs of people you’re expecting to get a season’s worth of dinner parties? If not, it may be time to get a new dining table and chairs. But don’t go purchasing the first thing you see.

There are pros and cons to every table form. And then there are all those additional chairs you want to factor in. It’s enough to make your head spin!

What is ideal for your house is dependent on a few factors you might not have thought about. I spoke with inner designer Tineke Triggs of Artistic Designs for Living, with a great deal to say about finding a dining set that’s ideal for you.

Artistic Designs for Living, Tineke Triggs

Round tables are potentially the most space efficient in terms of creating a comfortable exchange involving diners. “Ovals,” Triggs says,”are the next most efficient in this respect.”

Artistic Designs for Living, Tineke Triggs

In the case of the round and oval table, no one need sit in a corner when the table is crowded beyond its ideal capacity. But oblong and round tables might be off-putting for people who prefer to match the clean lines found in the rest of the dining area.

Dwelling Designs

Square and rectangular tables use the form of a room to their benefit. Their 90-degree angles deliver clear, unencumbered walkways around the perimeter.

The drawback is that the longer a table (rectangular or oblong ) is, the more difficult it is for people sitting on the farthest ends to hear one another. Plus, when a rectangular or square table is overstuffed with guests, someone’s bound to get stuck straddling a corner.

Sandvold Blanda Architecture + Interiors LLC

If you’re lucky, you will find that one form accommodates both your functional requirements and aesthetic needs.

Mark English Architects, AIA

To seat six to eight people, Triggs suggests using a round table in order to best allow individuals to converse with and be heard by everybody in the table. Though, she warns, some more people than that and the essential circumference of a round table may prohibit not just conversation, but also its capacity to fit in an average dining room.

Artistic Designs for Living, Tineke Triggs

For 10 to 12 people, an oval or rectangular table is best.

Holly Marder

Creating a long table more intimate. So perhaps a rectangular or oval is the better choice for your dining room’s configurations, your amount of guests along with your own style. To make it more intimate, Triggs suggests searching out a slimmer table, say one that’s about 36 inches wide, rather than the standard 42- to 48-inch wide table.

Even though it won’t draw the farthest ends closer together, it will significantly decrease the gap between people sitting across from one another.

Jim Burton Architects

The extendable dining table. Regardless of what form you opt for having the choice to extend the table length or circumference will allow you to accommodate a range of group sizes comfortably.

Triggs suggests obtaining a table with built-in leaves which fold from and back to the table. “If you don’t have to move the stand out from the center to include leaves,” she says,”it is generally easier — not just to extend and retract, but you also don’t have to locate somewhere to store those additional leaves. This is a great option if you’re continuously expanding and diminishing the table.”

Watch more on extendable dining tables

Whitney Lyons

Detachable leaves. Although detachable leaves can prove more clumsy than built-in leaves and need additional helping hands, this style of table might be a nice option for you if you don’t expand and retract your table often. “Center-leaved expandable tables have been around for centuries, and as a result there is a larger assortment of these at fair rates,” Triggs says.

KE Designs

Smart solution for keeping leaves. KE Designs created customized storage for this homeowner, designing a dedicated (and safe) area for dining table leaves.

Walton Architects

Regardless of whether the leaves are either detachable or built in, Triggs urges an extendable table with leaves measuring 12 to 18 inches, as this may open the table till a wide selection of sizes (assuming your dining area can accommodate the longest span ) without throwing off its equilibrium.

Artistic Designs for Living, Tineke Triggs

Custom tables. Haven’t found anything on the market that thrills you? Having a table custom made is an option, but one which Triggs cautions requires a skilled tradesperson if you’re talking about an extendable table. “This isn’t a task for any woodworker or cabinetmaker,” she warns. “You want to find somebody who understands overhangs, tipping ratios and foundation equilibrium. A good deal of thought must go into the making of an expandable table, so be sure you find someone that has a fantastic history.”

Artistic Designs for Living, Tineke Triggs

If you don’t know where to begin your search, read ‘s database of furniture makers. Or, if you’re already working with an interior designer, he or she can direct you to a respectable professional.

Artistic Designs for Living, Tineke Triggs

Chairs and spares. Once you decide the table you want, you are going to need chairs to seat your guests. “Many people buy dining chairs for appearances without sacrificing enough attention to relaxation,” says Triggs. “Make sure you’re purchasing comfortable chairs which guests may enjoy sitting for long intervals.”

How to Decide on a dining chair

Artistic Designs for Living, Tineke Triggs

Chairs with arms are beautiful and can be very comfortable, but they are space hogs when it comes to a large crowd. In the event you want to have such chairs for big parties, Triggs suggests limiting them to the minds of a rectangular or oval table. Armless chairs, on the other hand, will allow you to squeeze more of them around a table of any contour.

Prull Custom Builders

But how many chairs does one family need for this handful of large scale dinner affairs annually? First buy the number of chairs which will obviously fit around your dining table during its regular size (probably its smallest size).

Artistic Designs for Living, Tineke Triggs

If you can afford the distance and the cost, Triggs proposes storing additional full-size chairs on both sides of the buffet, then alongside an entry door and possibly in a guest room if needed.

Artistic Designs for Living, Tineke Triggs

Should you not have sufficient space for such storage (or the desire to buy as many full-size chairs as your fully extended table can actually adapt ), attempt folding or stackable chairs. Yes, I know what you’re thinking:”Not those ugly things!” Nevertheless, the new versions are not the chairs you remember as a kid. “I have a collection of 111 Navy chairs from Design Within Reach that I use for both indoor and outside parties,” says Triggs; those stackable chairs are produced from recycled Coke bottles. “They are comfortable and don’t have a wide footprint, which makes them simple to store in my garage.”

The Kartell Lou Lou Ghost Chairs shown here are also an attractive stackable option which can be stored out of sight (or can be readily integrated into other chambers ) when they are not needed in the dining room.

Wanda Lozada Interior Designer

If seats are a more favorable seating option, Triggs recommends allowing at least 16 to 18 inches in diameter per grownup fanny. “And make sure any bench has cushions,” she implores. “No one wishes to be the one stuck on a hard bench for a long meal.”

As an alternative to this arrangement, you might also set your bench chairs from a wall to get back support.

SIR Development

Your turn: Please show us your dining table set which will easily fit your vacation guests.

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Dry Minimalism from the Arizona Desert

“Sitting lightly on the landscape” is an expression that can be supposed literally and metaphorically; in the prior case it describes how a building physically touches the earth, and in the latter case it is all about reducing a building’s negative influence on the earth through energy use, water use and other factors.

The house of Alan and Mary Levin near Tucson sits lightly on the landscape in both regards. This is very important in the desert Southwest, where water is scarce and the warmth may make air conditioning a necessity 24 hours every day for much of the year.

The design, by Ibarra Rosano Design Architects, sensitively inserted the house into the landscape to respect natural attributes, minimize energy use and provide the Levins everything they asked for and much more.

at a Glance
Location: Close Tucson
3,500 square feet
That is intriguing:
A open metal box frames that the desert landscape from the patio adjacent to the pool.

Ibarra Rosano Design Architects

We are going to begin the tour at the conclusion — the pool and deck to illustrate the method by which the house sits on the landscape, and to develop anticipation about your house. The deck and spacious frame from the pool hover above the desert landscape, permitting water to flow and animals to pass, and giving the Levins a vantage point above the scrub and sand.

Ibarra Rosano Design Architects

They wanted the whole house on one level, also Ibarra Rosano realized this in a manner that incorporates the house amazingly well with the landscape. The integration results from the way the architects worked together with the height restrictions.

Ibarra Rosano Design Architects

This perspective of the house illustrates how it is literally lifted above the landscape at a few points to let the desert leak beneath. The site is split roughly in half with a tributary valley, which had been the driving force behind the architects’ decision to lift the house and divide it into smaller volumes.

Ibarra Rosano Design Architects

The architects’ study model is useful for understanding how the house is laid out in three volumes. From the trunk (to the south) are the carport and garage, linked by a bridge to the living and master bedroom areas in the middle. A library connects that bar to the parallel bar in the foreground, containing the bedrooms to the Levins’ kids: two married daughters with kids of their own. (This quantity can be shut off from the rest of the house if they aren’t visiting, cutting down on electricity use.) The pool is in the front-right corner, adjacent to both inhabited areas.

Ibarra Rosano Design Architects

The front of the house. The driveway results in a car courtroom on the right; on one side is your garage, and on the other is a carport for guests. From here residents and visitors walk to a covered bridge resulting in the house.

Ibarra Rosano Design Architects

The bridge traverses the valley, allowing the movement of water across the site to be maintained — as if the house didn’t even exist, in this regard.

Ibarra Rosano Design Architects

Looking north, in the exact same way as our perspective of the covered walkway, we can sense the narrow quantity of the first bar, together with the open frame in the distance.

This south face has a bit of an overhang to cut down on the high sun. The expansive glass capitalizes on views toward town — perspectives that the clients were not aware of initially and today particularly like at night.

Ibarra Rosano Design Architects

We enter the house into the spacious living, kitchen and dining areas, immediately seeing through the pool and deck.

Ibarra Rosano Design Architects

Along one side of the living area is a long fireplace, under a wood wall where the TV is mounted. This wall overlooks.

Ibarra Rosano Design Architects

From the dining area we may observe the kitchen’s white oak cabinets and island.

Ibarra Rosano Design Architects

The core of the interior is your kitchen, designed to provide perspectives of both the entry and the outdoor space, and to align with the library that leads to your guest and children’s wing. The Levins wanted a kitchen that has been open without being distracting during cooking; the wood cabinets onto the island aid in this regard.

The painting on the far wall, along with the rest of the artwork in the house, comes from the Library Street Collective in Detroit, a gallery that one of the Levins’ daughters runs with her husband.

Ibarra Rosano Design Architects

The master bath shows much of the exact same minimalist design as the rest of the house, however the blue tile wall and skylight create the space unique.

Ibarra Rosano Design Architects

This shelf in the master bath’s shower, highlighted by more blue tiles, is a nice touch.

Ibarra Rosano Design Architects

The cube defines a space for dining and loungingroom, but it is flexible enough to allow for a lot of things. The cantilever projects the deck into the landscape whilst still being above it. The architects call it a way to frame the perspective of the distant city lights.

Ibarra Rosano Design Architects

The cube was created to accept a shade, however, Mary Levin likes the view so much through the frame that she didn’t wish to alter it. Of course it helps that the house itself blocks some of the strong western sunlight, allowing the Levins to appreciate the space and the newfound perspective as is.

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