Eclectic Homes

Guest Picks: 19 Ideas for Nautical-Theme Kids' Rooms

I am currently working on the redesign of my three-year-old kid’s bedroom. I think I’ve depended on a nautical theme, but I also need to make certain the room can grow together with him and be applicable ten years from now. Below are my top 20 picks for a seafaring-inspired boy room which will age gracefully! — Emma in The Marion House Novel

Mjölk

Seablanket by Vik Prjonsdottir – CAD 440

Using its dance anchors in royal blue, this blanket by Vik Prjonsdottir is whimsical and charming. It is a perfect statement piece.

Design Within Reach

Deck Light | Design Within Reach – $425

This brass dock lighting has roots back to the shipyards of 19th century London. It’d definitely bring a marine sense to a boy’s bedroom and would look great on the wall beside a twin bed.

Three Potato Four

Classic Plaid Wool Blanket No.4 – $152

I am thinking of working with this red, blue and white vintage plaid wool blanket in my son’s bed. The color scheme is perfect for a nautical-themed room.

West Elm

Stripe Sheet Set, White/Dusty Navy – $59

Nautical striped sheets in navy and white are the perfect complement to a plaid throw.

Three Potato Four

Whimsey Folk Art Anchor And Chain Carving – $250

This anchor and string carving would make a great accessory. It is carved from 1 piece of wood!

Etsy

Vintage Ship Print 7 Nautical Sail Boat Sea From Hindsvik – $12

This vintage boat print is excellent for an adventure-loving boy area — superbly illustrated!

Etsy

Silk Aviator Map Cushion From Atelier688 – $250

These map cushionsare created from original Cold War silk aviator maps, would be perfect as accents on a bed or seat.

Etsy

Japanese Glass Fishing Floats Original Nets By GlassFloatJunkie

The story behind those original found Japanese glass fishing floats is so intimate. They traveled the ocean currents for many years until a beachcomber discovered them at Alaska. What a fantastic story to tell a little boy!

Three Potato Four

Wire Egg Baskets – $45

I love the redblue and yellow shade of those wire baskets. They would make great toy storage.

Anthropologie

Pliant Rope Handle – $12

I am thinking of finding a secondhand dresser and substituting the knobs using these pliant jute rope handles. They will immediately make the piece more seaworthy!

West Elm

Seagrass Basket, Oversized – $129

I enjoy using baskets to stow toys away. They are easy to use and look great. This sea grass version would add texture to a nautical-themed room.

West Elm

Star Garland – $12

This burlap star garland includes a beachy feel and could work nicely in the area. Maybe behind his bed or more than his window framework?

Noguchi

Akari Light Sculptures – $130

I’ve wanted one of those iconic Noguchi paper lanterns for a little while now. This is one of these bits you’ll always find a place for on your house and that will last the test of time.

The Rug Loft

New Dhurry

This white and blue flat woven carpet with jaunty stripes would be great underfoot!

ABC Carpet & Home

Baxter Table/Stool, Small – $1,495

This chopped weathered wood stool could function as a little seat or table. Its tough texture and diverse layout echo faraway lands.

Dash & Albert Rug Company

Blue Awning Stripe Woven Cotton Throw – $74

Toss this blue awning stripe throw at the end of a bed or over a seat for a nautical appearance.

AMLIVING

Signal Flag Décor, W Flag – $11

These nautical signal flags could make a fantastic wall decoration. Hang one or 2 of them onto the wall or string a whole group of them together just like a bunting.

Etsy

Curtain Tie backs Light Brown Rope Nautical By AlaskaRugCompany – $40

These curtain tie-backs would pop some navy or red linen drapes.

Three Potato Four

Folk Art Large-Scale Model Rowboat – $450

I am not certain when we have the room for this particular piece, but it’s something which may be hung from the ceiling of the room. I love all the layers of accumulated paint.

Next: Decorating With Maps

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Eclectic Homes

What Can I Deduct in a Tenant's Deposit?

The refund of the security deposit is the most common source of conflict between landlords and tenants, according to the California Department of Consumer Affairs, so follow the right procedures to decrease the possibility of disagreements. Keep in mind that laws govern what you can deduct — the safety deposit may only be employed to cover four special purposes. You can’t use the money to repair flaws that existed prior to the tenant moved in or ordinary wear and tear.

Unpaid Rent

If the tenant has failed to pay rent during his stay in the rental property, you have the right to deduct the sum of the unpaid lease from his safety deposit. You may also deduct the lease the tenant owes if he does not offer you enough notice before moving from the property. As an example, if the tenant moves out without giving you a 30-day written notice, you can charge him for the lease to cover the 30 days.

Cleaning Costs

You may deduct money to clean the rental unit in the end of the tenancy. You can take as much as you want to bring the rental unit into the cleanliness level it was in at the start of the tenancy. The tenant isn’t responsible for conditions that existed before he moved in. As an example, if there are stains on the carpet that were not there when the tenancy began, it is possible to deduct the amount you want to wash it. But if it was already stained and dirty from the start of the tenancy, you can’t make the tenant pay for the cleaning price.

Damage Repairs

If, in the conclusion of the tenancy, you find any damage in the rental unit that wasn’t there when the tenant moved in, it is possible to deduct enough safety deposit to pay for the repair price. The tenant is responsible for any damage that he or his guests induced during his stay in the rental unit, except for reasonable and average wear and tear. As an example, you may make him cover a broken shower head, a hole in the wall or a large rip in the drapes. However, if the paint paint has slightly yellowed through the years or the carpets and curtains discolored, you can’t make the tenant pay for painting or for replacing the carpets as well as the curtains.

Private Property Damage

You might be able to deduct from the security deposit the sum you want to restore or replace private property that came with the rental unit — even if there is a clause in the rental agreement that stipulates this. As an example, if the rental unit came with furniture or appliances and the tenant damaged these items beyond normal wear and tear, then it is possible to deduct the price of fixing them from the safety deposit.

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Eclectic Homes

Hidden Costs Throughout Construction Homes

Building a new home can be an exciting venture and one that gives you a lot of creative control over the design and characteristics of your living environment. It can also be an experience that tries your patience and also empties your bank account. Hidden prices are an unfortunate part of the construction process, but also the capability to identify them can help mitigate the damages until they accumulate.

Permits

Several of the most overlooked expenses of building a home are the cost of licenses. Ask your contractor if those are included in the purchase price quote you received for the project, and request an inclusive list of each license that will be necessary. If there are licenses that aren’t covered, include this in your cost negotiations prior to signing a contract. This is when the builder is eager for your company and will likely be more willing to toss in the extras. Licenses and required inspections will vary based on the region and the reach of your project but normally will include approvals for excavation, septic or sewer, blueprints, surveys, water testing or well drilling, utilities and adherence to zoning regulations.

Excavation

Most builders take responsibility for construction of the home itself, but not for preparing the property. Excavation and drainage prices can be extensive, depending on whether the lot has been approved for construction on and if the website is level. Soil samples should usually be offered to the county or town, and approval received prior to building permits are issued. There may be required wetland or protected habitat evaluations. You may realize that the county inspector demands a retaining wall. Consult your excavation company for a list of what is included and, more importantly, what is not. For items not included in the quote, insist on a comprehensive estimate of the cost will be and for a guarantee against overages, preferably with a cap of 10 percent.

Construction Extras

During the construction process, there are lots of on-site costs that may come as a surprise to you. These additional fees are typically concealed in small print at the contract, leaving you with a surprise bill that you are required to pay before construction commences. These penalties can include things such as portable toilets for construction crew, debris removal in the end of each day or week and renting a fence to safeguard against theft or liability. Find out whether you are responsible for making arrangements for all these items. If there are construction delays, and you are paying for these items on a weekly basis, you will be asked to pay the additional expenses. Additional items that may not be addressed in your contract are driveways, landscaping and an adequate number of electrical sockets.

Utilities

If your new home has been built in an established neighborhood in town limits, there is a great chance the lines for electrical, gas, cable and sewer will be within reach and can be brought to your house. This doesn’t indicate it’ll be free, however. You will be billed by every utility company for the cost of extending the lines to your property and also for hooking them up to your new home. This will require licenses and final approval from county inspectors, which you may also be charged for. As with many of the unexpected costs of building a new home, there is a risk your contractor will cover these items, but never assume that is the case. Always request, and be ready to pay out-of-pocket for concealed expenses and extras.

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Eclectic Homes

The Way to Fix the Pull Starter on a Cub Cadet Lawn Mower

No matter what new your lawn mower happens to be, it won’t be of much use the pull rope is broken along with when it has a recoil starter. When designing generators manufacturers take this fact. They usually make the starter assembly easy support and to remove, and it is true of Cub Cadet mowers. Kohler engines are used by these machines — that the starter is mounted directly requiring removal of four nuts to dismount it. The fix may entail replacement of recoil spring this rope or both.

Pull on the plug off the spark plug wire to disable the machine. Unscrew the four nuts holding the starter assembly into the engine. Remove the assembly; flip it on, and put it on a flat surface.

Unscrew the plate that holds the recoil pulley into the starter casing, with a screwdriver. Lift off the plate. You should have the ability by lifting it out to remove the Cable. Keep a finger over the spring below the pulley, located to stop it.

The spring inspect. You will need to substitute it When it’s broken. This is sometimes a job that is troublesome, and it’s usually easier to replace the pulley. If the spring remains intact, however, the pulley was not recoiling, it probably fell off the lifting. You are able to restore the starter by substituting the pulley and making certain the spring is mounted.

Change the rope when it’s frayed or broken. Untie the knot at the rope that is old and pull it. Wind the pulley clockwise through six turns, and line up the hole at the pulley with the one at the housing. From unwinding insert a screwdriver during casing and the spokes louvers to protect against the pulley.

Feed the brand new rope through both holestie a knot, and place the knot inside the pulley so that it’s out of the way. Hold the rope securely while you remove the screwdriver, then let the pulley wrap and unwind the rope around itself.

Replace the starter and put the wire back on the spark plug.

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Eclectic Homes

The Way to Change the Leaf Blower into Blower From Vac

Many leaf blowers contain vacuum attachments to assist you pick up yard debris or clean gutters out. Some versions include a feature that is mulching, so once you vacuum grass clippings or leaves, they are cut to use in your mulch pile. When you’re finished with your jobs and prepared to blow leaves or mowed grass out of your yard or into piles, altering the attachments is a procedure that is simple.

Turn off prior to removing any attachments, the leaf blower. Unplug whether the version is electrical.

In on the tab holding the vacuum bag set up, then pull the bag away in the leaf blower. Some versions may use. Hold the bag vertical when pulling it away to keep from spilling its contents.

Remove. While other versions have, on some versions, you turn the tube counterclockwise to launch it.

Close the door over the hole in which the vacuum tube has been attached. Some versions have a hinged door that closes when you eliminate the vacuum tube. Turn the door’s screw with a flathead screwdriver to hold the cover in place. Other versions have another cover piece that you just pop into place until the tabs move. Most models have a safety feature that will not enable the leaf blower whether the vacuum cover is loose or open to function.

Place the blower tubing over the socket. Turn the tube clockwise to fasten it on some versions. Until the tab latches on other, push it, or lower the clamp of the tool to get a secure hold over the peg of the tube.

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Eclectic Homes

How Can I Replace a Wall Mounted Light Fixture?

Lighting fixtures comprise sconces, vanity lights and designs created for surfaces. Replacing a light fixture that is wall-mounted shouldn’t take more than half an hour , as long as was installed and requires more. Appropriate installation means that it was screwed to an box that’s in turn.

Switch off the breaker. Turn to the light if you are not sure which breaker which is until it goes out and turn breakers in turn off. Switch off the wall switch controlling the fixture, and the pull string as well.

Unscrew the mounting screws holding the fixture. You may turn cosmetic screws by hand or using pliers. Use a screwdriver, Should they have slots. Pull the fixture If the screws are outside and support it while you unscrew the cable caps and then pull the wires apart.

Compare the mounting plate to the electrical box, called the strap or crossbar, to the one provided with all the new fixture. Then you can save yourself time by lifting the new fixture into the strap that is already there if they’re identical. However, unscrew the strap from the box and then twist if they are different.

Straighten the ends of the wires and note their colors. One ought to be black, one white and one bare. Pull the wires out from the rear of the quilt, and you should also find a black and white wire. A wire may be bare or green. Either way, it corresponds to the bare cable in the box.

By joining wires of the identical color — black to black, white to white and white to bare or green to bare connect the lamp into the circuit. Twist the ends of each pair of wires clockwise using pliers. By screwing onto a cable cap insulate the connection.

Push on the wires as far back into the box as they’ll go. Mount the fixture by screwing it into the ring together with all the screws that came with it. Tighten the screws with a screwdriver to fasten the fixture or using your fingers.

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Eclectic Homes

How to Install Laundry Chutes

Laundry chutes are a handy method to deliver dirty clothes and used towels into the laundry area in the basement of a house. They include a length of metal ducting that runs from the top floor of a building. Laundry chutes have baskets positioned to collect the laundry. Laundry chutes can be set up in a wall using a spring-loaded door, or can be hidden and set in a little linen closet with a bottomless basket over the opening of the chute.

Determine the location of the laundry chute. Locate a non-load-bearing wall that’s parallel to the floor joistsparallel to the base or bottom plate wall studs which are directly over floor joists. An perfect location is a wall over the laundry area in the basement. Switch off the power at the main circuit breaker into the area of your house where you are going to set up the laundry chute. Use a stud finder to find two parallel studs which run from the floor to the ceiling in the wall. Drill a small hole into the wall, then poke a screwdriver in and gently move it around to check for obstructions in the walls, such as vertical pieces of timber, gas or water pipes, wiring or service beams. If there are no significant obstructions, you can use this area to install your laundry chute.

Pry up the baseboard situated on the bottom of the wall using a pry bar. Use a utility knife to cut out a rectangular field of drywall that’s 42 inches tall, and the same width as the space between two wall studs (studs in wall frames have been set up either 16 inches or 24 inches apart). Cut down from the center of each stud into the stud. Eliminate.

Use a reciprocating saw to cut the base plate — the bottom 2-by-4 which runs parallel with the floor joists and is perpendicular to the 2 studs — and then slowly pull the cut base plate out of the wall. Cut a hole through the plywood floor underlayment between the two studs that’s the dimensions of the laundry chute dimensions.

Cut 2 pieces of 2-by-4 which are either 16 inches or 24 inches long to fit between the studs. Nail the 2-by-4 pieces to the studs using shank nails in the area where the top and bottom of the laundry chute will be found. Push two 16d nails, spaced 1 inch apart, at an angle during the 2-by-4 pieces into the wall studs.

Connect 3 1/2-heating duct into an 18-inch-long stretch of duct to the laundry chute. Slide the bottom of a 90-degree barbell using a enroll opening onto one end of the duct. Position the 90-degree elbow so that its opening faces you when the heating duct is set vertically on the floor. Cut the corners of this 6-inch enroll opening with tin snips and bend the cut corners so that the opening is the size of your own laundry chute door.

Apply duct tape into the interior seams of the laundry chute where the duct snapped collectively, to make a smooth surface for the garments to slide , and finish creating your laundry chute.

Insert the end of the laundry chute into the pit in the floor underlayment. Twist the cover of the chute into the 2 studs and the 2-by-4 pieces with sheet metal screws and an electric screw driver. Position the screws onto the center point of each aspect of the opening of the laundry chute.

Mark the 42-by-24-inch object of drywall where the opening of the laundry chute is going to be found when it is set up and cut it out. Trim the drywall to size in case your studs are spaced 16 inches apart instead of 24 inches apart. Put the drywall piece onto the wall and then use 1 1/4-inch drywall screws to attach it into the studs.

Employ wrought iron drywall tape based on the seams of the drywall. Use a 6-inch drywall taping knife to apply an even coating of drywall joint compound within the drywall tape. Sand down the face of the joint compound and then employ 2 more layers of this compound. Let it dry and sand down the surface between every layer of joint compound.

Attach to the 2-by-4 support pieces with wood screws.

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Eclectic Homes

How to Set a Tin Roof Into The Siding

Tin roofs feature sheet metal, installed with the grooves running down to promote water to drain off the roof. Some older houses have tin roofs, but because of local building codes, the installation of tin roofs now is usually limited to barns, sheds and industrial buildings. Tin roof installation necessitates the use of purlins, which can be flat nailing strips on the roof deck. On roofs where a sloping roof plane and the siding meet, endwall flashing is necessary to prevent escapes. To tie the roof to the siding, then the tin roofing panels must first be installed to within 1/4 inch of this siding.

Add a nail bar beneath the bottom row of veneer that lies above the seam in which the tin roof meets with the siding and then pry upward .

Push on the siding back down along with the nails that hold the siding in place usually remain sticking out a bit. Eliminate them with all the nail bar.

Slide the brief end of a strip of endwall beneath the loosened row of siding and flashing up. Endwall flashing comes in 10-foot lengths and appears like an open letter”L.” The more finish rests on top of the tin roof, covering it about 6 to 8 inches.

Add extra endwall flashing strips if the roof edge is longer than 1 strip. Overlap the strips at least 6 inches and then brush on a thick layer of butyl rubber where the strips match to decrease the probability of leaks. Cut excess flashing that extends using tin snips off.

Nail the siding with 8d nails so the nails run through the siding, procuring the end of this flashing. Utilize the nail holes if at all possible.

Draw a pencil line on the corrugated tin across the edge of the flashing. Here is the filler reference line.

Lift the edge of the endwall flashing to get the corrugated tin beneath. The flashing has a tendency to lay flat across the roof, so you might have to brace it up an inch or two with a scrap of timber.

Install filler strips 1/2 inch above the filler reference line, on the tin roof. Filler strips might be made of timber foam or other substances. On one side, they have the identical configuration as the corrugated roof. On the other side, they’re flat. Installation depends on the kind you decide on, and might entail attaching the strips with silicone caulking or peeling off protective paper and sticking the strips in place.

Apply a bead of silicone caulking into the top edge of the filler strip, then unless it is a press-and-stick form, then reduced the endwall flashing back in to position. The filler strips form a seal between the corrugations on the tin roof and the edge of the flashing.

A neoprene screw every 12 inches across the top rated flat edge of the endwall flashing, in the purlin beneath. On a tin roof, the uppermost purlin lies just beneath this metal’s top edge. To secure the endwall flashing correctly, it is imperative that the screws reach the purlin.

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How to Prepare for an Appraisal for Profession

A home appraisal is a survey of your home, performed by a professional appraiser who is trained to find out the worth of your premises. Unlike a home inspector, an appraiser will not check electric outlets or inspect the pipes to ascertain whether repairs are needed. Rather, an appraiser may check the general condition of your home to ascertain its comparable market value. This market value is important for a bank to understand before it will loan money on the house; for a potential home buyer, the appraisal is a sign of whether he is getting a reasonable deal on the property.

Prepare the home as if you're. You can find things on the appraiser's checklist which you can't alter, such as the dimensions and location of the home or the number of chambers, however you can help impact the exemptions 's overall impression of how well-maintained the residence is by introducing it in its cleanest condition. Thoroughly clean and declutter each room. Turn lights the house so the appraiser can see exactly what he's looking at.

Make any necessary repairs around the house. Obvious problems, such as broken windows, door knobs or cracked bits of tile, ought to be repaired. While the appraiser isn’t there to make certain everything is in working order, he’ll notice if they're not, and it will impact his reaction to the house, especially because he starts to compare it against similar homes in the region.

Update any obsolete fixtures. Spend as little money as possible to earn everything presentable, while still addressing the small problems that the appraiser is sure to make note of. Don't overlook he'll be taking copious images of the inside and exterior of your home for the lending organization. You don't need anything to stand out to the lender as a drawback.

Freshen up any paint that might be faded. This doesn't should become a full-house repaint, but you ought to start the windows, turn the lights in every area and honestly accessibility which walls could use a little attention. There is nothing like a fresh coat of paint to earn a home feel comfy and cared for.

Improve your curb appeal. Clean toys and debris out of the yard. Mow and trim the yard. Plant bright, colorful blossoms near your front entrance. Sweep the driveway and sidewalk. Wash the windows to provide a warm, welcoming appearance.

Create a list of upgrades you've created to the house. It’s important that the appraiser know about any upgrades you't created so that he can measure them against the amenities found in similar properties. Upgrades include new cabinets or counters, new flooring, decks and major landscaping additions.

Do your assignments. Learn what similar homes are selling for in your neighborhood. Even though the appraiser will do a comparative home worth study of his own, if you know that a home like yours has sold for less than what you think the worth of your house to be, allow him understand why your home differs.

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Everything You Need to Know About Dust and How to Fight It

There is no simple way to discuss dust. It is one of those things which makes even the toughest of individuals just a bit squeamish. But it’s important to understand what’s lurking inside your home even in a microscopic level, especially if you’re one of every five individuals who suffer from allergies. In any case, this info might finally get you dusting and vacuuming on a regular basis.

“House dust is a combination of substances, some possibly allergenic — distinct fibers; dander from cats, dogs and other animals; dust mites and bacteria; mould and fungus spores; and pollen,” says microbiologist Karen Hall, who works at Dyson, the company known for its high-powered cylindrical vacuums.

We hear about dust mites all of the time, but since we can’t see them, most of us don’t actually give them too much thought. Out of sight out of mind, right? Well, perhaps knowing that dust mites are a part of the arachnid family, like spiders, and reside on your mattresses and pillows in such mass numbers that they really add weight to these things, should be enough to keep them in your mind for a very long time.

Garrison Hullinger Interior Design Inc..

I hate to be the one to break this to you, however when someone says they are allergic to dust mites, technically that’s not true. It is really their stool that folks are allergic to. “It is not the dust mites themselves, it’s their nasty temptations that cause an allergic response,” Hall says. “They contain highly allergenic proteins which cause asthma or other allergic problems.”

Allergist James Sublett, who’s chair of the American College of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology Indoor Environment Committee, says colonies of dust mites and their excrement are concentrated in bedding and bedrooms, in addition to heavily upholstered furniture. “You can have a lot more dust absorbed in those configurations, which then gets stirred up into the air with activity,” Sublett says.

FJ Interior Design

That means that modernists might get an advantage over dust. Flat, solid surfaces, especially flooring, and slick leather upholstery tend to be more ideal for maintaining dust. A easy wipe-down manages a lot of settled dust. If anything, Sublett recommends eliminating wall-to-wall carpets in bedrooms.

Here are more ways to keep dust in check:

Terrene Homes

Get a dust-tracking mat. Search for something that says “anti-microbial.” This will help eliminate some of the awful stuff you track in on your shoes. The ideal solution, however, is to remove your shoes prior to entering the home. “Otherwise you will be earning nasty chemicals, pollen, dirt and dust directly into your home,” says Hall.

Dunn Development, Inc..

Place small items in a plastic bag and freeze them. This is very good for things like children’s toys. You will want to freeze them for about two days, says Hall, then let them thaw naturally. This will kill off all of the dust mites.

Caden Design Group

Keep pets out of the sack. Sorry, but it’s ideal to keep animals from your bedroom and especially off your bed. Cats and dogs have a tendency to track in lots of dander and dust from the outdoors and shed it around your house. You might wish to also think about vacuuming your puppy often with special appliances like the Dyson Groom tool.

Dufner Heighes Inc

Wash your pillows. People remember to scrub pillow cases, but the pillow itself often gets neglected. Ever notice the way your pillow appears to get heavier? Congratulations, you’re harboring a colony of dust mites and their feces. Wash them every six to 12 months or substitute them.

Kristen Rivoli Interior Design

Here is a shocker: Do not make your bed. That is right, Hall recommends leaving the blankets off to allow the mattress cool. This can protect against dust mites from breeding so quickly.

Bryhn Design/Build

Safeguard your mattress. You will want to frequently vacuum your mattress to pick up skin tissues and dust mite feces. You might also consider encasing your mattress and pillows. Be certain to acquire a fine woven encasement with a sealed zipper, Sublett says.

Lisa Borgnes Giramonti

Get all the nooks and crannies. “It’s important to find the areas you don’t see as well — high shelving, air vents and mattresses,” Hall says. Also, vacuum intensively around beds and under beds when possible, since dust mites can be bothered and drop to the ground as covers are thrown back. “And don’t forget to vacuum under the sofa; the perfect hiding spot for dust mites,” Hall says.

Dust and vacuum cleaner one or two times a week. You will not ever be able to do away with all of the dust, Sublett says, and dusting and vacuuming kicks up some dust anyway, so doing these tasks one or two times each week is sufficient. Also, invest in a dust mask, like an N95 NIOSH, and that means you’re not breathing in most of the disturbed dust. (It takes just two hours for dust to settle, Sublett says.)

Get a vacuum cleaner that’s asthma and allergies and one with a HEPA air filter. A central vacuum system, like the one shown here, ought to be considered. They’re designed to deposit the vacuumed debris outside the living space, usually in containers in the garage or basement.

Keep out humidity. Humidity plays a major part in dust mite proliferation and other potential dust allergens like mold. Sublett urges you try and keep the humidity below 50 percent. Installing a dehumidifier might be perfect for many people.

Ellen Grasso & Sons, LLC

Wash bedding weekly. This is a given. It does not have to be super hot, either. A warm water cycle will kill mature dust mites.

Also, purifying the air inside your home is among the greatest strategies to reduce dust buildup.

More: Guide to Indoor Air Purifiers

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