Home Painting

The Way to Paint a Panelled Room

Older homes may come complete with wood paneling in many rooms. At once a popular design element, paneling is dim and provides a room an obsolete feeling. Eliminating paneling can be costly and time-consuming, often between replacing drywall and plaster. A far easier approach to take care of the problem is to paint it over, giving the paneled room a fresh new appearance.

Prep the area. Cover floors with drop cloths. Mask off with painter’s tape the windows, doors and moldings. This measure will help to eliminate drips or paint smears. Painter’s tape is easily removable and won’t hurt already painted areas in the room.

Wash paneled walls using a cleaner and a degreaser according to the instructions on the packaging. This measure removes dirt, dust and sticky substances from the paneling, allowing the paint to be consumed readily. Wear protective gloves and eyewear. Make certain you keep the room well ventilated. Allow the paneling completely dry before proceeding to the next measure.

Sand that the paneling. This measure is very critical as it removes the glossy surface and”roughs” it up slightly, allowing the paint to adhere to surface. Make sure you wear protective eyewear and gloves when working with a sander. An end sander or a oscillating instrument fitted using a sanding accessory and fine-grit sandpaper will provide you a smooth coating. Sand the entire paneled area. If necessary, use a rotary instrument fitted with a sanding disk or wheel to sand by hand any indentations from the paneling the finish sander might not achieve.

Wipe the walls using a tack cloth to get rid of fine sanding dust that will remain on the walls.

Paint the paneled walls using a primer . The primer will be absorbed into the wood and will seal any present colour or stains that might want to come throughout the paint. Make sure every indentation is covered with primer as well. You might want to use two coats of this primer to completely seal the paneling, based on how dry it is. Allow the primer to dry thoroughly between coats.

Apply the finish coat of paint colour to the walls that are underperforming. Again, you might want to use two coats of paint based upon the coverage of the primer coats. Allow the paint to dry thoroughly before removing the painter’s tape and drop cloths.

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Home Painting

How to Preserve a Concrete Statue

Concrete garden art accents your landscaping with designs that express your style, but these concrete figurines need care exactly like your own plants. In the concrete, weather elements wear away As time passes if it is not sealed. Extreme temperatures also affect the integrity of the cement. Cold winter temperatures specifically can cause cracking in art. Maintaining concrete statues doesn’t expect a lot of effort, but the payoff comes in a piece that stands up through the years.

Blow off dirt the statue off. Spray the statue with a garden hose to remove additional debris or dirt. Wash out the statue every few months so the dirt and debris don’t build up on the surface.

Apply a thin coating of Portland cement to cleaned and dampened areas that are cracked or chipped. Wet your finger to smooth out the cement. Allow the cement to dry for two hours. Mist the fixed area gently with plastic wrap. Mist the fixed area daily and replace the plastic wrap for five times.

Brush a watertight concrete sealer over the surface of a clean and dry statue. Allow the decoration to dry for at least 24 hours or per the directions on the brand new container. Apply another coat of sealant if needed to completely cover the cement. Leave the base of the statue unsealed to enable the concrete to breathe. Apply more sealer to some statue every year.

Empty water before winter if the statue includes a fountain or birdbath. Remove the bowl of this birdbath or cover it with a board. Remove the pump from the fountain if current.

Move the statue into an indoor location if possible for the wintertime. Lift the bottom of this statue off the ground if you leave it outdoors. Use wood or tiles to separate the statue from the ground.

Cover the statue throughout the winter with a tarp if you leave it outdoors. This can protect it from the weather. Secure the cover with string so that it will not blow off the statue.

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Tropical Style

How Long Does Ortho Weed-B-Gon Take to Work?

Weeds are the bane of any gardener’s existence, frequently growing more vigorously than the desirable plants and grass in the landscape. At flowerbeds, you can frequently keep them under control with dedicated weeding sessions, ripping out their origins by hand. But when they begin taking over your lawn and every pavement crack, it may be time to break out the herbicide. Ortho Weed-B-Gon will destroy weeds before they wreak havoc on your garden.

Weeds in the Grass

The most troublesome kinds of weeds to eliminate are the ones which grow in your lawn, because you run the risk of not only killing the weed but also the rest of your grass too. Weed-B-Gon Weed Killer for Lawns Plus Crabgrass Control may be applied to your lawn any time weeds are actively growing. Active ingredients are .10 percent quinclorac, .22 percent MCPP-p, .12 percent 2,4-D and .05 percent dicamba. Be sure the daytime temperature is over 45 degrees and under 90 degrees Fahrenheit when applying, and wait an hour following application to water your lawn. Most weeds will show signs of wilting or yellowing of new development within a day of application. Necrosis will disperse, turning hardened brown and also killing them within 14 to 28 days. If seeds were completely developed before the weeds die, they will continue to be feasible, however. This means new weeds will crop up from seeds, requiring additional treatment. If you’re dealing with particularly stubborn weeds, another application two to three weeks afterwards may be necessary also.

Weeds in the Landscaping

Grassy weeds which populate your landscaping can be tough to remove by hand. In tiny flowerbeds, it is possible to manually get rid of the grass, but bigger areas may need an herbicide such as Ortho Grass-B-Gon Garden Grass Killer. Its active component is 0.48 percent fluazifop-p-butyl. For best results, spray weeds anytime they’re actively growing and repeat again seven days later to control crabgrass, quackgrass and Bermuda grass. Grass-B-Gon may be safely used around ground covers, plant beds, landscapes, flowers and shrubs and also works within one to four weeks following application.

Weeds in the Pavement

Weeds in pavement cracks, along fences and driveways are a lot simpler to kill because you don’t have just as much surrounding vegetation. Ortho GroundClear Vegetation Killer works in such spots. Its active ingredients are .016 percent imazapyr and 1.0 percent glyphosate. For smaller regions, the ready to use formula can be sprayed on weedy offenders when they’re actively growing. Best results are achieved when implemented on a sunny day once the temperature is between 45 degrees and 85 degrees F. Long Sensors must be cut down before application. Weeds will yellow and wilt within 10 hours. They’ll be dead in one to two weeks and shouldn’t grow back for a single year.

Cautions

Don’t use Ortho GroundClear over root zones of trees of shrubs or even where it is likely you might later plant. On clay soils, the product deposits may remain in the ground for up to one year. When using any herbicide, follow all mixing directions and safety precautions printed on the tag. Keep children and pets from the region until the spray has dried.

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Tropical Style

Why Do People Hang Milk Jugs From Apple Trees?

Insects can be a major issue if you’ve got an apple tree, with pests like apple maggots causing significant harm to both your own fruit and the tree itself. Sticky traps are often used to protect against insects but provide little protection against flying pests. Homemade traps made from milk jugs provide extra protection for your trees, luring both crawling and flying insects in and killing them before they can escape.

Jug Traps

Milk jugs hanging out of apple trees and other fruit trees are used as traps to catch and kill pests that would otherwise damage the trees or fruit. Insects are lured to the jug with a sweet liquid bait solution and are not able to escape. The trapped insects become coated in the bait solution and finally drown within the trap. You can make traps of different sizes using half-gallon or gallon jugs, depending on the size of your trees.

Trap Solution

There are numerous strategies to produce an effective way for jug traps. Most liquid bait solutions are created using either sugar or molasses combined with water in a 1:10 ratio to make a syrup. Some options also include apple cider vinegar, reducing the amount of water and creating a more intricate bait. Other organic materials, like diced banana peels, are sometimes added as well. Solutions can be reached in advance and stored in a separate container, allowing you to add solution to hanging traps in an as-needed basis without having to make more.

Earning Jug Traps

Milk jugs need minimal if any modification before they can be used as jug traps. While it is not necessary to cut the jugs, cutting holes in the sides of the jugs makes it even easier for flying insects to enter the trap and allows the trap to be refilled without removing it from the tree. These holes should be large enough at the sides of the jugs so that you are able to place at least 1 inch of bait solution in the trap without spilling.

Protecting Apple Trees

Hang jug traps from sturdy branches on the apple trees you would like to protect, using twine or other sturdy string. For smaller trees, a single jug trap provides adequate protection; large trees must have at least two or three traps. If there are no holes cut into the sides of the jugs, position the open mouth of the jug close to the division and tie the jug close to the trunk. Check the jugs every couple of days emptying and refilling them if a significant number of dead insects roam in the bait option.

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Tropical Style

Can You Cut the Top Off of a Madagascar Palm to Propagate Multiple Growth?

Madagascar palm (Pachypodium lamerei) is also an unusual plant that’s really a succulent in the dogbane family and isn’t related to authentic palms. Native to southern Madagascar, this tender perennial is hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11 and can be grown in cooler climates if overwintered indoors. It is often grown as a houseplant. This species typically grows in the kind of a single trunk, but it occasionally branches after flowering or in the event the main stem is wounded.

Identification

Madagascar palm is notable because of its thick gray trunk and long spines. In the landscape, this tropical species can reach up to 15 feet high and has a slim, straight contour with spirally arranged leaves at the apex. When grown indoors, this plant stays much smaller and contains a spindle-shaped back up. Madagascar palms have big, dark green leaves with a leathery surface and bear white flowers with spiralling petals in late spring to early summer.

Natural Branching

Branching occurs naturally in Madagascar palms that have suffered from some sort of injury, like frost damage. Mature plants also occasionally branch without becoming damaged. This occurs mostly in older specimens and typically happens shortly after booming. Outdoor Madagascar palms are more likely to blossom and to division naturally than those grown indoors. Small branch-like offshoots also occasionally look in the base of the plant and these new limbs can be eliminated to produce a new plant.

Induced Branching

You might have the ability to induce branching at a Madagascar palm tree by cutting the top of the plant. This procedure requires injuring the middle of the spiral from which the leaves normally grow, so the plant produces two new functions. Cut the plant with a clean, sterile knife or shears to reduce the risk of infection. While many Madagascar palms recover, there’s always a possibility your specimen won’t regrow after cutting.

Factors

You may increase the possibility that your Madagascar palm will division by providing it with perfect ethnic ailments. Planting in full sun, providing temperatures over 60 degrees Fahrenheit year old and using an extremely well-drained growing medium promotes outdoor plants to develop the extensive root system necessary for branching. Ideally, these crops must receive regular watering throughout the summer and stay relatively dry throughout the cool season to discourage frost damage and produce an extremely healthy specimen.

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Eclectic Homes

Heat a Greenhouse With Propane

When temperatures fall, greenhouses prevent seedlings and cold-sensitive plants from being damaged or even damaged. Supplemental heat is frequently needed if you intend on keeping these plants in your greenhouse throughout the winter, however. Propane heaters are just one option for keeping your greenhouse heat and can be found as both installed heaters and portable units. To maximize their efficiency, you should take steps to reduce heat loss in your greenhouse prior to turning the heaters on.

Preparation

Apply caulk to some joints around doorways, windows or other openings in your greenhouse to prevent heat loss.

Inspect the gaskets on your greenhouse and replace them as necessary. Worn or damaged gaskets allow heat to escape.

Install weather stripping and insulation as essential to further prevent the reduction of heat.

Install an automatic port control system which opens and closes vents dependent on the temperature inside the greenhouse. This allows carbon dioxide to escape, lets oxygen in and handles heat much better than manual vents.

Permanent Heaters

Contact a local propane supplier and inquire about using a propane tank installed close to your greenhouse. If several propane providers operate in your area, request quotes from multiple resources to find the best price on tank installation.

Put in a concrete pad or other flat surface authorized by the propane business that you choose whether the firm does not include pad placement in its setup support. A representative in the company should help you with placement and sizing if necessary.

Put in your heater unit in the greenhouse. If possible, mount the heater reduced on the greenhouse wall so that heating occurs at ground level and rises to avoid cold spots within the greenhouse.

Await the setup crew to arrive with the propane tank. They’ll install the cylinder and the pipe for your heater to make sure it does not leak. When the tank is filled and your heater is connected, the setup crew will test the system to make sure your heater works properly.

Portable Heaters

Clear a space on your greenhouse that’s big enough for the your portable heater and its own propane tank. Make sure the heater and tank are placed on level ground where they will not be disturbed or crowded.

Connect the cylinder to the heater. Open the valve on the cylinder to release enough gas to light the pilot light on the heater.

Adjust the heater settings as required to produce the quantity of heat you want. Switch off the heater and shut the valve on the propane tank once the heater is no more required.

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Eclectic Homes

The ideal Fabric for Re-Covering a Sofa

If your couch is in need of upgrading, reupholstering is a budget-friendly option that could add years to its life. Selecting the best material to cover it depends on your lifestyle and priorities for the new cover. If there’s pets or children in the household, durability and stain resistance are key. If the couch is in a lower-traffic room, designer fabrics with a verdant look might be used. With the right cloth, you can change the look of the entire room and create your old couch appear fresh.

Cotton Twill

For a second update that’s cost efficient, cotton twill is an perfect option. Twill is a tight condition that resists wear and may defy high-traffic use for a number of years, making it a smart selection for a household with pets or children. Multicolored patterns show dirt less than solid-color fabrics. Be careful not to put a cotton-covered sofa close to any potential fire, however, as the cloth can be extremely flammable unless treated.

Microfiber

A choice often found on sofas accessible home furnishing stores, microfiber or microsuede is a comparatively budget-friendly alternative that works well with almost any style of room decoration. Microfibers possess some stain-resistant properties, and could be treated for extra immunity, making clean up easy with a damp (but not overly wet) cloth. The tight weave makes it immune to pet claws, albeit not jammed. Microfibers are widely available in fabric stores in a variety of colors.

Velvet

A high-density wool or poly-blend velvet is really a sophisticated option that could withstand a lot of wear through time. They are exceptionally versatile fabrics available in a vast array of colours that are cozy and inviting. The fire resistance of velvet depends on its make-up with some choices considered highly flammable, so make sure you check the tag before purchasing if the couch is going to be placed near a potential flame.

Leather

Leather is a great option when durability is the maximum concern and cost isn’t. It’s a gorgeous alternative that works well in contemporary and traditional settings alike. It may be treated for stain resistance, and clean-up is easy with a damp cloth. Whether there are pets with sharp claws in the home, be wary allowing them on the leather. Although it is highly durable, if a sharp object does cut through the leather, then it is not possible to restore it to its initial state.

Latex Backed

If you are looking to re-cover a couch in a room that doesn’t find daily usage, or favor a luxurious look, you will find a variety of upholstery fabrics with a satin look and texture that may be utilized. These looser-weave fabrics have more durability when they have a latex back, an option found in the fabric shop’s upholstery section. While they might be more susceptible to tears, the latex maintains the tear from going through to the sofa’s inside, and might be easily repaired with a couple of hand stitches.

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Tropical Style

Cherry Tomato Plant Information

Cherry tomatoes, loved for their sweet, bite-sized fruit, create intimately, with one cherry tomato plant producing enough fresh fruit for the average family, notes Sonoma County Master Gardeners. Fruits ripen in approximately 65 to 75 days from planting, based on the variety. Cherry tomatoes are suitable for putting in hanging baskets, containers or in the ground.

Cherry Tomato Types

Most cherry tomatoes are vining, indeterminate varieties, but you may also purchase determinate varieties. Indeterminate cherry tomatoes continue to grow and set fruit throughout the summer until the plant is killed by frost in fall. While red cherry tomatoes are the most frequent, but also come in orange, yellow, orange and multicolored.

Plant Size

Cherry tomato crops are available in all shapes, from dwarf plants to full-size plants growing around 7 ft tall. Smaller plants are better suited for container growing, but all cherry tomato varieties grow well in garden soil.

Container Tomatoes

Cherry tomatoes work well for container growing. Midget, patio or dwarf varieties are best for containers due to their compact size and smaller root system. Hanging baskets are suitable for indeterminate varieties. Hanging them high enough to keep the vines from the ground eliminates the need for a trellis or other support. Container-grown tomatoes need regular water and a sunny place to thrive.

Growing Information

Cherry tomatoes grow best in loose, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Compact, healthy crops which are 6 to 8 inches tall are best for transplanting after all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed. A program of dilute fertilizer at planting gets the plants off to a fantastic start. Fertilize again using a 10-10-10 fertilizer once the first fruits set. Regular, deep watering to keep the soil moist, but not soggy encourages deep roots and a healthy plant. Indeterminate cherry tomatoes need assistance out of a cage or trellis to keep them away from the ground.

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Tropical Style

How to Care for a Contorted Filbert Tree

1 look at the twisted branches of this contorted filbert tree (Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’) in winter is all that it takes to understand how it got its name. A sort of European hazel, it is scientifically classified as a deciduous tree. Contorted filberts climb to 8 feet in height with an equal spread and perform best when climbed in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9.

Boost the contorted filbert tree in full sun along the shore and in partial shade in the warmer inland regions.

Provide decent drainage for the contorted filbert tree. If you’ve got slow-draining dirt, add 3 to 4 inches of chunky compost to it in planting.

Water that the contorted filbert frequently enough to keep the soil consistently moist during its first two decades. After that, stick your finger into the ground to check for moisture and just water if the ground is dry.

Fertilize the contorted filbert twice a year, in spring, only once you notice new growth and again in early summer. Utilize an all-purpose fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, in accordance with label instructions. Set the fertilizer 1 foot outside the filbert’s dripline and spread it entirely around it. Water the area to soak up the fertilizer to the plant’s roots.

Snip off small bananas which appear around the foundation of this contorted filbert. All these are called suckers and ought to be cut to the ground or flush with the trunk of this tree.

Cut off any branches or twigs with bumps. All these are recognized as cankers and may be a indication that the tree is infected with blight. Dispose of all diseased wood.

Pick off Japanese beetles as you locate them. The best time to spot the metallic pests is early in the morning, on the tree’s leaves. Drop the beetles into a 4-quart bucket filled with water and 2 tablespoons of dishwashing soap.

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Tropical Style

How to Preserve massive Leaves to Utilize as Wall Art

There are several ways to conserve leaves for arrangements and artwork, but most leave you with a horizontal, brittle leaf that loses the organic appearance and feel of their leaf. Keeping leaves in glycerin avoids these difficulties and gives them a natural, flexible look and feel. Leaves preserved with glycerin also persist for a long time, making them ideal materials to work with in wall art.

Gathering Leaves

The quality of your preserved leaves begins with the grade of the leaves you collect. Collect big, mature leaves to a dry afternoon and look for leaves at peak condition. Cut the leaf or branch using a clean, sharp knife or pruning shears. Maintain the leaves in water till you are ready to maintain them; leaves that have wilted or dried out doesn’t preserve well. Crush the close of the branch or leaf stem using a hammer just before placing it in the preserving liquid.

Keeping with Glycerin

Stand with the leaf or branch in a vase or jar, as you would a flower. Cover the crushed ending in a solution of 1 part glycerin and 2 parts hot water for two to six weeks. Begin with the option at approximately 100 degrees Fahrenheit to encourage the plant to carry this up quickly, but you don’t have to keep the option alluring. Huge leaves and thick, dense leaves possess the longest absorption period. Add food coloring or dye to the solution at a shade closest to the leaf natural colour to help keep that color in the finished product. Add more water as required to keep the solution at around exactly the exact same level during the procedure. The leaves are ready when they’ve taken up enough glycerin to make them completely pliable, having lost all signs of brittleness.

Supporting the Leaves

Whether you want to wire your leaves depends on how you intend to use them. Leaves that have to support themselves by the stem or branch can be wired for long-term stability. Enrollment also makes it easier to arrange the leaves on your artwork. Tightly wrap the stems of individual leaves with wire in a color closest to the stem color, leaving a long tail to attach them to your artwork. Leaves on branches may need a wire wrap round the branch and the leaf stem to strengthen them for long term display. If you intend to attach the leaves to the wall or a canvas in the back of the leaf, wiring isn’t crucial.

Storing Preserved Leaves

Leaves ready with glycerin keep indefinitely, but their colours will fade over time due to light exposure and heat. Protect the color of their leaves by keeping them in an airtight container in a dark, cool and dry location when they are not on display.

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