Eclectic Homes

The Way to Change the Leaf Blower into Blower From Vac

Many leaf blowers contain vacuum attachments to assist you pick up yard debris or clean gutters out. Some versions include a feature that is mulching, so once you vacuum grass clippings or leaves, they are cut to use in your mulch pile. When you’re finished with your jobs and prepared to blow leaves or mowed grass out of your yard or into piles, altering the attachments is a procedure that is simple.

Turn off prior to removing any attachments, the leaf blower. Unplug whether the version is electrical.

In on the tab holding the vacuum bag set up, then pull the bag away in the leaf blower. Some versions may use. Hold the bag vertical when pulling it away to keep from spilling its contents.

Remove. While other versions have, on some versions, you turn the tube counterclockwise to launch it.

Close the door over the hole in which the vacuum tube has been attached. Some versions have a hinged door that closes when you eliminate the vacuum tube. Turn the door’s screw with a flathead screwdriver to hold the cover in place. Other versions have another cover piece that you just pop into place until the tabs move. Most models have a safety feature that will not enable the leaf blower whether the vacuum cover is loose or open to function.

Place the blower tubing over the socket. Turn the tube clockwise to fasten it on some versions. Until the tab latches on other, push it, or lower the clamp of the tool to get a secure hold over the peg of the tube.

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Peach Earwigs & Trees

Because they feed on aphids in some garden situations, earwigs are considered beneficial insects, but in trees they feed on the delicate fruit and cause substantial damage. The species of earwig that hurts peach trees would be that the European earwig (Forficula auricularia). The insect is all about 3/4 inch long and reddish brown in color. It’s easily recognized by means of a pair of appendages in the rear end.


Earwigs feed on fruit and tree leaves. Leaves may have signs and jagged holes around the edgesbrought on by caterpillars. To differentiate the harm start looking for webbing and frass, which is excrement that resembles fine sawdust. Both of these symptoms indicate that the problem is caterpillars and not earwigs. Fruit will have narrow gouges.


Trapping makes the usage of insecticides unnecessary and is an effective way to control earwigs. Cubes are made by low-sided cans like tuna or cat food cans with a half inch of oil at the bottom. Use vegetable oil or fish oil with a couple drops of bacon grease as bait. You can use pieces of tube such as sections of a water hose, rolled newspaper or cardboard; earwigs will come across these hiding places without the use of bait. Place the traps just before dark and empty them into a bucket of water in the daytime. Continue putting traps till you are no more grabbing earwigs.

Hiding Places

Practice decent sanitation to eliminate hiding places like fallen leaves, weeds and debris. Earwigs also conceal in mulches and groundcovers as well as ivies. Suckers that rise from the base of the shrub may also give refuge. Earwigs can hide in cracks and crevices in the bark of trees that are peach. From the lower trunk, carefully scrape off the loose, outer bark on trees.

Additional Controls

Earwigs conceal in cool places at night. In arid, Mediterranean climates, the insect is encouraged by irrigation practices. Water trees early in the day when earwigs find a moist hiding place so the surface of the soil around it and the tree have plenty of time. Coating the trunk of this tree with a substance designed to snare insects prevents earwigs from scaling the tree.

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Eclectic Homes

How Can I Replace a Wall Mounted Light Fixture?

Lighting fixtures comprise sconces, vanity lights and designs created for surfaces. Replacing a light fixture that is wall-mounted shouldn’t take more than half an hour , as long as was installed and requires more. Appropriate installation means that it was screwed to an box that’s in turn.

Switch off the breaker. Turn to the light if you are not sure which breaker which is until it goes out and turn breakers in turn off. Switch off the wall switch controlling the fixture, and the pull string as well.

Unscrew the mounting screws holding the fixture. You may turn cosmetic screws by hand or using pliers. Use a screwdriver, Should they have slots. Pull the fixture If the screws are outside and support it while you unscrew the cable caps and then pull the wires apart.

Compare the mounting plate to the electrical box, called the strap or crossbar, to the one provided with all the new fixture. Then you can save yourself time by lifting the new fixture into the strap that is already there if they’re identical. However, unscrew the strap from the box and then twist if they are different.

Straighten the ends of the wires and note their colors. One ought to be black, one white and one bare. Pull the wires out from the rear of the quilt, and you should also find a black and white wire. A wire may be bare or green. Either way, it corresponds to the bare cable in the box.

By joining wires of the identical color — black to black, white to white and white to bare or green to bare connect the lamp into the circuit. Twist the ends of each pair of wires clockwise using pliers. By screwing onto a cable cap insulate the connection.

Push on the wires as far back into the box as they’ll go. Mount the fixture by screwing it into the ring together with all the screws that came with it. Tighten the screws with a screwdriver to fasten the fixture or using your fingers.

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Tropical Style

How to Grow Lavender Inside

French impressionist artists generated painterly canvases. A plant prized for its delicate, gray-green leaves and fragrant, purple blooms, lavender (lavandula) is a shrub that also adds visual appeal into the California backyard or home. Based upon the number, lavender is hardy through U.S. Department of Agriculture zone 9, which makes it appropriate for the Bay Area. If you reside in fog-prone San Francisco or should you desire to enhance your decor as you fill the air with a perfume, lavender may also be grown inside with some concerns.

Tug gardening gloves to protect your hands and different saucer and the backyard pot — you will reassemble them. Fill your garden pot with equal parts of compost, potting soil and sand or grit that is coarse and mix them. Lavender grows best in well-drained soils that maintain a pH between 6 and 8, so this trifecta will offer the optimum climate for your plant.

So that the root ball is covered by soil dig a hole deep enough for the plant. As possible dig, transfer the soil that is displaced to the saucer.

Remove making sure your new pot is roughly five to 10 times bigger than its original pot’s size, letting it the room to grow. The Munstead variety is smaller and more compact than some its lavender cousins, which makes it ideal for an indoor environment. Pick a different rainbow variety for indoor planting, if it is not easily available.

Put the lavender plant at the center of the hole and fill around the plant together with all the soil that is displaced. Mound the soil around the stem to hold it in place.

Set the lavender in a sunny window in which it will receive up to seven to eight hours of sunshine a day — southern or western exposure windows and fit the pot are ideal for growing indoor blossoms. Lavender is also a sun worshipper, so organize a light over the plant so that it will receive a sufficient amount of light, as in San Francisco, if sunlight is evasive. If you live where sunlight is much more plentiful, sufficient sunlight is received by experiment without the mild to ascertain if the lavender.

Water the plant and promote root development. Stop watering once water runs from the drain hole to the saucer. Lavender flourishes in conditions that are somewhat dry, so it is imperative not to overwater; watering once a week is sufficient to promote wholesome growth.

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Home Cleaning

How to Clean a Faucet

Faucets are a favorite among several homeowners to the mellow glow of the metallic and because they are time-tested as durable. Chrome is not warmer in colour than nickel’s silvery tones , yet cooler than gold, brass or bronze. Newer versions are less susceptible to damage than antique faucets. Whether your faucet has a brushed, matte or shiny finish, cleaning nickel isn’t any more difficult than any bathroom fixture.

Daily Cleaning

Dampen a soft cotton rag with warm, soapy water.

Wipe the faucet from grips to base with the rag. Pay careful attention to the bottom of the grips and spigot and around the base, which are areas where mineral deposits and soap residue can accumulate.

Rinse the rag and then wash the soap.

Buff the faucet before the soap is eliminated and no water stains are shown by the nickel.

Position Removal

Dampen a rag with vinegar.

Gently rub on spotty areas on the faucet with the rag. Do not scrub doing this can wear down the nickel finish.

Buff the faucet.

Major Cleanup

The faucet with disinfectant cleaner. Allow the cleaner sit for 5 minutes.

Scrub around the base of the faucet using an old, soft toothbrush to loosen soap, hairspray, toothpaste and other caked.

Scrub areas round the base of the faucet handles, spigot and some other place which you can not easily reach using a rag.

Wrap a large, thick towel round the base of the faucet.

Soak rag or a sponge with water.

Squeeze the sponge over the faucet, rinsing off residue and the cleaner.

Eliminate and then buff the faucet dry using a clean rag.

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Eclectic Homes

How to Install Laundry Chutes

Laundry chutes are a handy method to deliver dirty clothes and used towels into the laundry area in the basement of a house. They include a length of metal ducting that runs from the top floor of a building. Laundry chutes have baskets positioned to collect the laundry. Laundry chutes can be set up in a wall using a spring-loaded door, or can be hidden and set in a little linen closet with a bottomless basket over the opening of the chute.

Determine the location of the laundry chute. Locate a non-load-bearing wall that’s parallel to the floor joistsparallel to the base or bottom plate wall studs which are directly over floor joists. An perfect location is a wall over the laundry area in the basement. Switch off the power at the main circuit breaker into the area of your house where you are going to set up the laundry chute. Use a stud finder to find two parallel studs which run from the floor to the ceiling in the wall. Drill a small hole into the wall, then poke a screwdriver in and gently move it around to check for obstructions in the walls, such as vertical pieces of timber, gas or water pipes, wiring or service beams. If there are no significant obstructions, you can use this area to install your laundry chute.

Pry up the baseboard situated on the bottom of the wall using a pry bar. Use a utility knife to cut out a rectangular field of drywall that’s 42 inches tall, and the same width as the space between two wall studs (studs in wall frames have been set up either 16 inches or 24 inches apart). Cut down from the center of each stud into the stud. Eliminate.

Use a reciprocating saw to cut the base plate — the bottom 2-by-4 which runs parallel with the floor joists and is perpendicular to the 2 studs — and then slowly pull the cut base plate out of the wall. Cut a hole through the plywood floor underlayment between the two studs that’s the dimensions of the laundry chute dimensions.

Cut 2 pieces of 2-by-4 which are either 16 inches or 24 inches long to fit between the studs. Nail the 2-by-4 pieces to the studs using shank nails in the area where the top and bottom of the laundry chute will be found. Push two 16d nails, spaced 1 inch apart, at an angle during the 2-by-4 pieces into the wall studs.

Connect 3 1/2-heating duct into an 18-inch-long stretch of duct to the laundry chute. Slide the bottom of a 90-degree barbell using a enroll opening onto one end of the duct. Position the 90-degree elbow so that its opening faces you when the heating duct is set vertically on the floor. Cut the corners of this 6-inch enroll opening with tin snips and bend the cut corners so that the opening is the size of your own laundry chute door.

Apply duct tape into the interior seams of the laundry chute where the duct snapped collectively, to make a smooth surface for the garments to slide , and finish creating your laundry chute.

Insert the end of the laundry chute into the pit in the floor underlayment. Twist the cover of the chute into the 2 studs and the 2-by-4 pieces with sheet metal screws and an electric screw driver. Position the screws onto the center point of each aspect of the opening of the laundry chute.

Mark the 42-by-24-inch object of drywall where the opening of the laundry chute is going to be found when it is set up and cut it out. Trim the drywall to size in case your studs are spaced 16 inches apart instead of 24 inches apart. Put the drywall piece onto the wall and then use 1 1/4-inch drywall screws to attach it into the studs.

Employ wrought iron drywall tape based on the seams of the drywall. Use a 6-inch drywall taping knife to apply an even coating of drywall joint compound within the drywall tape. Sand down the face of the joint compound and then employ 2 more layers of this compound. Let it dry and sand down the surface between every layer of joint compound.

Attach to the 2-by-4 support pieces with wood screws.

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Eclectic Homes

How to Set a Tin Roof Into The Siding

Tin roofs feature sheet metal, installed with the grooves running down to promote water to drain off the roof. Some older houses have tin roofs, but because of local building codes, the installation of tin roofs now is usually limited to barns, sheds and industrial buildings. Tin roof installation necessitates the use of purlins, which can be flat nailing strips on the roof deck. On roofs where a sloping roof plane and the siding meet, endwall flashing is necessary to prevent escapes. To tie the roof to the siding, then the tin roofing panels must first be installed to within 1/4 inch of this siding.

Add a nail bar beneath the bottom row of veneer that lies above the seam in which the tin roof meets with the siding and then pry upward .

Push on the siding back down along with the nails that hold the siding in place usually remain sticking out a bit. Eliminate them with all the nail bar.

Slide the brief end of a strip of endwall beneath the loosened row of siding and flashing up. Endwall flashing comes in 10-foot lengths and appears like an open letter”L.” The more finish rests on top of the tin roof, covering it about 6 to 8 inches.

Add extra endwall flashing strips if the roof edge is longer than 1 strip. Overlap the strips at least 6 inches and then brush on a thick layer of butyl rubber where the strips match to decrease the probability of leaks. Cut excess flashing that extends using tin snips off.

Nail the siding with 8d nails so the nails run through the siding, procuring the end of this flashing. Utilize the nail holes if at all possible.

Draw a pencil line on the corrugated tin across the edge of the flashing. Here is the filler reference line.

Lift the edge of the endwall flashing to get the corrugated tin beneath. The flashing has a tendency to lay flat across the roof, so you might have to brace it up an inch or two with a scrap of timber.

Install filler strips 1/2 inch above the filler reference line, on the tin roof. Filler strips might be made of timber foam or other substances. On one side, they have the identical configuration as the corrugated roof. On the other side, they’re flat. Installation depends on the kind you decide on, and might entail attaching the strips with silicone caulking or peeling off protective paper and sticking the strips in place.

Apply a bead of silicone caulking into the top edge of the filler strip, then unless it is a press-and-stick form, then reduced the endwall flashing back in to position. The filler strips form a seal between the corrugations on the tin roof and the edge of the flashing.

A neoprene screw every 12 inches across the top rated flat edge of the endwall flashing, in the purlin beneath. On a tin roof, the uppermost purlin lies just beneath this metal’s top edge. To secure the endwall flashing correctly, it is imperative that the screws reach the purlin.

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Decorating Guides

Patio Deck Remodeling Ideas

If you adore spending a trendy, relaxing day outdoors, a deck is the perfect addition to your house and provides the additional advantage of increasing your home’s value and making it more attractive for sale in the future. Regardless of your preference for fashion or the size or shape of your yard, you can create a deck that fits your taste and provides you hours of pleasure.

Stained and Scored Concrete

If you currently have a concrete patio and are looking for a way to dress it up, consider staining the concrete. Stains can be found in a variety of colors that can mimic other and stone, tile surfaces. It is possible to choose multiple stain colours to make a pattern or design. Scoring the concrete gives the appearance of tile to the patio. Even fancier options are concrete painting, engraving and stenciling.

Composite Decking

If you like the look of a wood deck but don’t like staining wood or coping with rot, composite decking might be the best choice for you. Composite decking comes in a variety of colours and mimics the look of wood without the timber problems that are real. Composite decking won’t rot and will continue much longer than wood, making the extra price of composite decking well worth it in the long term.


Stone makes an attractive patio deck, especially if you prefer the look in your landscaping. Stone comes in a variety of shades and textures, which means that you can purchase stone look you desire or to match any colour scheme. You can purchase or cut stone to squares and install at a tile-like pattern or purchase organic stone and fill in the gaps with mortar or sand. Use stone shapes, if you’d like a look and allow moss grow between the stones.


Pavers are constructed to look like brick and offer homeowners the benefit of relatively simple installation without professional aid. For installation is sand and flat ground all pavers require. You can purchase pavers in a variety of colours and also select distinct patterns for installation, for example basket-weave or parquet. Pavers can also be readily utilised to make walkways to other areas of the yard that fit your patio. They can also be stacked and mortared to make landscaping beds.

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Saving Water

Troubleshooting Your Manufactured Housing Issues from Structural to Electrical Concerns

Manufactured homes, previously known as mobile homes, have been around in their present form since the 1950s. For years, manufacturers adopted their construction standards, leading to uneven home quality. In 1976, the US Department of Housing and Urban Development, or HUD, made uniform construction and safety standards for manufactured houses. In 1994, the standards were upgraded to include insulation and wind-resistance specifications, and post in the November/December 1996″Home Energy Magazine” notes.

Site Preparation Problems

Housing installation problems can start with site prep. The Manufactured Housing Institute states that the builder’s or dealer’s failure to correctly grade the website for drainage can cause water flows into the house’s base. Unstable floor can also lead to potential home structural problems. Foundations unsuitable for terrain conditions can cause concerns too.

Structural Issues

Some manufactured houses have experienced structural flaws. Wall flaws include use of wood or metal furring strips to which other elements are mounted. Solid lumber supplies better structural integrity. Other structural difficulties include insufficient sheathing beneath exterior metal siding, in addition to flows at window and door seams. Crawl space problems include floor clearance violations, insulation mold contamination and insect infestation, InspectApedia reports.

Plumbing and Moisture

Home plumbing problems are concerns. Many shower, bathtub and sink fixtures are made from thin plastic which will crack and leak. Some toilets don’t comprise shutoffs for water crises, Consumers’ Union worries. The Florida Solar Energy Center reported that moisture problems were widespread in manufactured houses in hot, humid areas. Causes included moisture migration from crawl spaces, poorly installed moisture barriers and bad duct condensation drainage.

Heating and Ac

Homeowners can experience manufactured home heating problems. The Mobile Home Doctor states that elderly furnaces could have cracked fireboxes that flow carbon dioxide into the home. The furnace exteriors can also present a issue, since they’re intended to get flammable material. Filter maintenance is needed to reduce this risk. Water in air conditioning ductwork is also an aggravation, also means that the tankless water drain is malfunctioning. Oftentimes, older air conditioners run continuously and barely cool the home at all. This disappointing performance can lead to compressor replacement and is as a result of a compressor enthusiast. At length, window components pressed into service to get a badly cooled home can overload the circuit and cause a breaker to trip.

Electrical Factors

Improper use of electrical systems could result in home fires, particularly in manufactured houses. The United States Fire Administration notes that many problems result from homeowners that use erroneously rated switches, bulbs and other electrical parts. Cracked or stiff electrical cords, along with extension wires unable to carry power loads, can also lead to potential fires. Sparks, hot electrical strings and tripped circuit breakers are warning signals of electrical problems.

Setup and Legal Issues

Since HUD commissioned fabricated home construction standards in 1976, factory-built houses have observed quality development. Unfortunately, homeowners have observed damage to recently purchased homes during transport to the construction site, or through the installation phase. Resolution of these issues falls into local governments and the home dealers, who actually have the home until the county issues an occupancy permit. Oftentimes, local agencies are reluctant to give information to the homeowner so he could pursue his case against the home trader. In California, as an Example, the information is available from the Housing and Community Development Ombudsman, at a cost of $196 or even more in 2009. The Manufactured Housing Citizens Group recommends that fabricated home buyers retain an lawyer to deal with the entire home purchase and installation process. In addition, the group recommends you hire an independent home inspector to oversee quality problems from begin to finish.

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Renting and Tenant Rights

How to Get a Grant Deed

A grant deed is used to transport property from one owner to another, primarily within a arms-length sale. The deed includes certain guarantees –that the property has not been sold to anybody else and it is free from liens. To prepare a valid grant deed, each state will have its own needs, but many states, including California, will need a written document that defines the parties, supplies the property’s legal description, also includes language granting name. In order to produce the grant deed appropriate for recording, additional information is usually required by the recorder’s office where the property is situated.

A grant that is pre-printed deed form. A good source for these forms can be the site of a government recorder’s office where the property is situated, like the County of Ventura, Clerk and Recorder. The pre-printed form will include the proper legal terminology required in the jurisdiction where the property is situated and indicate what information has to be added. These forms can also be found by a neighborhood real-estate broker or legal stationary store.

Add the name and address to the grantee at the upper left-hand portion of the grant deed. This is done in order to make certain that the original grant deed is returned to the grantee after the deed is recorded and all future property tax statements are mailed to the grantee, the San Francisco County Office of this Assessor-Recorder advises.

Find the assessor’s parcel number for your house and insert it at the grant deed at the blank space after”APN.” You can find the APN from several resources. It can be discovered on a property tax bill or a previously recorded grant deed for the house. Some authorities property assessors make the information available through a site, like the San Francisco County Assessor’s site SFParcel.

Find the information provided from the local authorities assessor’s office to calculate the documentary transfer tax to your property and add the sum calculated at the grant deed where indicated. Unless a specific exemption applies, a tax is implemented that is based on the value of their house whenever there is a change in ownership. In California, the grant deed could be denied for recording if the tax isn’t paid at the time recording is requested. The way of calculating the taxation is available in the local authorities assessor and can often be found on the assessor’s site, like the dining table of documentary taxation information provided from the San Francisco County Assessor. Along with computing and paying the tax, the San Francisco County Assessor also requires you to submit a Transfer Tax Affidavit, which will be available from its workplace.

Add the name of the grantor–the individual selling the house –after the phrase:”FOR VALUABLE CONSIDERATION, receipt of which is hereby acknowledged, I (We)….” The grantee’s name is added after the phrase:”hereby remise, release and grant to…” The name of this county and city is inserted in the blank spaces that follow.

Add the property’s legal description at the region reserved over the signature line. The best source of information is the legal description in a prior grant deed for the house. In addition, it can be found on any name report obtained for the home as a portion of their sale. Double check the legal description. An inaccurate legal description will cause difficulty transferring the house later on.

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