Before you lay any type of flooring, the subfloor should be flat, and when it is plywood, 1 approach to flatten it is to sand it. That is best done using a flooring sander. If you need to remove adhesive from old carpet or shingles, use a floor buffer first.
Flattening the Floor
Prior to installing laminate or hardwood planks, the subfloor should be flattened to a tolerance of 1/4 inch in 10 feet. Going over the floor using a drum sander is the quickest way to try it, and as you do not have to be worried about scratches, you can use tough paper and do the job fast. Before you sand, do not forget to set all the screws and nails and fill depressions and gaps using floor leveling compound.
Adhesives and heavy paint often gum up the paper onto a drum sander, so it is best to remove these using a floor buffer. You can find quite a few of buffer attachments that will do the job fast, including scrapers and specialty adhesive removers. After a treatment using a buffer, a thorough vacuuming and a pass with a drum sander should find the subfloor prepared for a floor covering.
Epoxy putty is a modern improvement in wood restoration. It’s used mainly — but not exclusively — to get exterior wood repair when rot appears on casings, trim, decking or anywhere else where water has penetrated into the wood. Epoxy resin comes in two parts: a resin and hardener. A third part, the bonding agent, is employed as a precursor to this program of the resin after it’s combined. Epoxy resin is relatively permanent and, after program, can be shaped to match the profile of the existing wood. The repair is nearly impossible to detect after it’s painted.
Scrape off old paint around the broken or damaged area by means of a wire brush. Scrape and chip out any large debris and balls from the rotted area working with a screwdriver.
Install a grinding piece to a rotary tool. Grind out any remaining soft wood working with the rotary tool. When the bit strikes hard wood and the rot or delicate wood is gone, then the pit is ready for the bonding agent. The cavity can be irregular with differing levels or seams.
Use the liquid bonding agent to the cavity by means of a paintbrush. Apply it generously to soak the inside of the cavity completely.
Mix the two-part resin with a putty knife in line with the manufacturer’s directions. It might be tagged as part one and part two, or resin and hardener, depending on manufacturer. Mix the two parts with a flat piece of plywood or scrap wood.
Use the mixed resin to the cavity with the putty knife. Use it just like a trowel to push the resin into the recesses, pits and shapes of the cavity. Complete the program by smoothing and shaping the resin flush with the profile of the current wood working with the putty knife. It’s fine if the puttylike resin is raised up slightly higher than the surface of the wood. Permit the resin to dry overnight.
Shape and mold the hardened resin to match the profile of the existing wood working with a medium-grit file. Fold a sheet of 100-grit sandpaper into thirds and use the sharp edge just like a knife to sand inside tight corners. Roll the seams around a dowel to sand within curved profile lines. Sand the resin smooth utilizing 120-grit sandpaper. Apply paint as needed.
Limestone is a soft, sedimentary stone made up of calcium. It can contain modest cracks called fissures at or beneath its surface. Over time, normal wear and tear can cause these fissures to open up broader into bigger cracks. If a crack appears in stone, it may detract visually from the rocks, and maybe weaken it also. Filling the crack using epoxy resin tinted to match the shade of the bunker both masks that the crack and gives the stone back its tensile strength.
Vacuum or sweep the crack in the bunker to eliminate any loose stone debris or dust. The crack needs to be totally clean and free of any loose stuff for the repair to hold.
Wipe acetone over the crack with a soft fabric. This cleans the crack and also prepares the surrounding stone to take the epoxy restoration.
Mix up the epoxy resin using the pigments till it matches the color of the stone. Put a few of those mixed epoxy to the syringe.
Inject the epoxy to the crack with the syringe. Begin at the far end and pull the syringe toward yourself as you push the plunger. Fill the crack until it’s level with the surrounding stone. If you overfill the crack, scrape the excess epoxy immediately with a craft stick or razor blade. Allow the repair harden for 24 hours.