Sweet, tangy peaches (Prunus persica), growing in home orchards and yards, are vulnerable to pest and disease damage. Peach attract borer worms and other pests. Borers feed under the bark and assault peach trees and other stone fruit trees. It is possible to control most pest attacks with pesticides. Knowing early signs of infestation may help protect the tree and its fruit harvest.

Peachtree Borers

Two kinds of borers affect peach trees. The greater peachtree borer (Synanthedon exitiosa) Expand under tree bark to feed on sapwood. Stripped bark and bare wood are indications of borer infestation — a weakened tree invites additional pests and disease. Insects attack near the ground line and may kill young trees by cutting off nourishment to the back. Peachtree borers frequently enter the wood through cankers and pruning scars. Damage contains masses of gummy, sappy liquid mixed with sawdust on the outer bark of trees. Lesser peachtree borers (Synanthedon pictipes) infest upper areas of the tree’s trunk and branches. Both borer species produce larvae that live in bark through the tree’s dormancy. In spring, larvae mature into adult borers. Female borers each lay around 400 eggs into or under the tree’s bark.

Indications of Borer Infestation

Peachtree borers, though they look like wasps, are really moths and watching out for pest damage is a step toward protecting stone fruit trees, notes Ohio State University Extension. Inspect trees throughout early spring pruning — borer activity may be present if there are holes in woody branches or the trunk. Pheromones attract male borers to females, therefore traps featuring these synthetic substances can ascertain when to use insecticides to larvae. Traps for lesser peachtree borers should be hung in late April. Traps for greater peachtree borers should be placed on the tree in late May. Each snare, when monitored weekly, approximately determines the number of borers are in the tree.

Pesticides

Applying pesticides before borer eggs hatch might help control infestation, especially when trees are young. For protection during their first year, new trees should absorb pesticides into roots before planting. In the second year, use pesticides to back bark and around the base of this tree. Generally, the number of chemical programs needed depends on how badly infested the tree is also if you’ve got either one or two kinds of peachtree borer. Chemicals for use on peachtree borers include paradichlorobenzene crystals (PDB), endosulfan, carbaryl and permethrin.

Pest Issues

Even though borers are a common threat, peach trees are vulnerable to a number of other pests including aphids, mites, stink bugs, thrips and scale insects. Insect injury can lead to foliage to yellow, premature leaf curl and drop, honeydew excretion and sooty moulds on fruits. Twig borers, scale and comparable pests may weaken, damage or destroy twigs, branches and, in serious cases, entire trees. Some insects, such as San Jose scale, are preyed upon by 2 beetles, Chilocorus orbus and Cybocephalus californicus, and a couple of tiny wasps. Chemicals for basic pest and pest management include malathion, methoxychlor, dormant oil and fixed copper.

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A fence may serve a variety of uses, including demarcating landscape sightlines, providing physical or visual obstacles and establishing boundaries. There is a manner of fence for every function and although fashions vary, they typically have the exact same standard components and the building process follows the exact same basic actions. That process can be challenging, however, by site-specific considerations which have sloped or rocky terrain and jarring landscape features, like trees and shrubs.

Elements of a Fence

Whether made of wood, vinyl or metal, all purifiers have articles and though it is possible to build a fence without rails, most have those too. The poles that define the corners of the fence are known as anchor articles, while those in between them will be known as line articles. Some long boundary fences contain little more than poles and rails, however, the rails may also hold a covering of wood or plastic forks, wire mesh or some other material. Each fence needs an opening somewhere along its length so you are able to pass from 1 side to another and the opening might be protected by a gate.

Placing Posts

Fence structure normally begins with erecting the backbone articles which define its perimeter, followed by placing the line articles. Builders generally bury articles made of pressure-treated timber in holes full of gravel or concrete, but some maintain that bolting them to article holders set in concrete stops wooden poles from rotting and results in a longer-lasting fence. The typical spacing between poles is about 8 feet, but it may be smaller when extra strength is required in a windy location or when the fence should adhere to a steep slope. Gate articles need additional encouragement, particularly if the gate is wide and heavy.

Rails and Fence Coverings

Most fences have bottom and top rails which extend between each pair of articles. Screws or nails are generally sufficient for holding wooden rails to wooden poles, and metallic rails typically attach with special brackets. You can make certain each rail is horizontal by checking it with a level. Wooden slat styles incorporate adjacent boards twisted to one side of the rails or alternating on either side, horizontal slats, widely-spaced pickets and planks attached straight to the poles without the requirement for rails. When erecting a steel fence, then you are going to require a come-along to stretch the mesh and a screwdriver to tighten the brackets to carry it.

Finishing Touches

Any wooden fence will last longer if you coat it with a protective finish and one with a high pigment content blocks sunlight better than a crystal clear finish. Stains are easier to use to rough-sawn fence timber than paint, therefore that the very best fence complete is frequently a solid latex or oil-based stain. Fence builders often end a job by constructing the gate. It needs to be around one-half-inch narrower than the gate opening so it will open and shut smoothly. Gate hinges are easy to mount; they typically screw into the front of the gate.

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It’s almost impossible to make washing clothing fun, but using a well-organized and superbly constructed laundry room can certainly help. This season readers saved photographs of laundry rooms that utilized less space without minding style. Smart designs and great storage ideas helped to make the most out of these fluff-and-fold areas.

Take a look at the most popular laundry area photographs of 2012, as determined by the amount of ideabooks that they have been added to.

Tarallo Kitchen and Bath, Inc..

1. Single-wall informed in New York. A stacked washer and dryer can conserve space, as seen in this very simple laundry room. ers liked how the laundry area shot up only one tiny wall — an idea that can certainly operate in smaller houses.

Warren Home Restorations

2. Purple cabinetry in Minnesota. Purple cabinetry is a bold choice, but this laundry area tones down it with gray undertones.The etched detail on the sink, conventional hardware and warm wall color help tie the remainder of this quaint area together.

Lucy Interior Design

3. Colorful Minneapolis laundry area. Small spaces like laundry rooms can be excellent places for bold colour. ers took a cue from this one, saving this picture for its brightly colored shelves and handy hang-dry space.

Precision Cabinets

4. Violet walls and marble floors in California. Purple laundry rooms were a hit in 2012! The comparison between the rich wall color and the marble countertops and flooring tile makes it effortless to forget this attractive space is actually a laundry area.

TransFORM | The Artwork of Custom Storage

5. Smart storage in Brooklyn. Different cabinetry forms in this New York laundry area inspired readers to combine storage thoughts in their own houses. Wire drawers, deep cabinetry and shelving over the washer help keep everything neat.

6. Witty tags in San Francisco. Frosted glass cupboard doors greatly streamline the laundry procedure. ers also noted the handy stainless steel table on top of the washer and dryer, ideal for folding clothes whenever they are dry.

Crystal Kitchen + Bath

7. Space with glass. A stacked washer and dryer, a small sink and a spot for hanging clothing make the most out of limited square footage. readers loved the lovely stained glass window.

Abbott Moon

8. Walls and floors in Southern California. A slim setup receives a bold remedy with patterned background and checkered marble floors. readers saved this picture for its fun pattern play but also noticed the smart layout.

Rock Paper Hammer

9. Brick floors in Kentucky. The herringbone brick flooring adds an unexpected element to this cozy laundry room. ers loved the burst of colour from the glossy turquoise ceiling too — and, needless to say, a few mentioned the sweet cat.

Total Spaces Design

10. Custom drying drawers in Washington. This inventive idea eliminates the need for bulky drying racks at a laundry area with restricted space. Custom drying drawers like these can hold delicates and other small items that have to air dry.

More: Find more laundry rooms of every size, colour and style

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So many diseases can ruin tomatoes that it is a wonder they are among the most widely grown vegetables. Fusarium and Verticillium wilts, early and late blights, tobacco mosaic virus and Stemphylium grey leaf spot are all caused by fungal or viral pathogens that travel through ground or on the end. Several equally dangerous diseases are spread by a bug known as the beet leafhopper (Circulifer tenellus).

Leafhoppers

Beet leafhoppers lay eggs in open fields during cool, moist spring weather. Nymphs feed for a couple of months and develop to light green bugs, wider in the head than in the tail, but only about 1/10 to 1/8 inch long. Adult leafhoppers live just about 30 days, but migrate over long distances, landing in fields and strayed from plant to plant on long back legs. In California, beet leafhoppers produce several generations. They overwinter and lay eggs in foothill areas.

Curly Top

Leafhoppers get viral pathogens by feeding in affected regions and act as carriers of the disease. Curly top is just a group of diseases (curtoviruses) containing beet curly top virus, beet mild curly top virus and beet severe curly top virus. New strains of the light virus also have been identified by University of California at Davis researchers working with pepper plants inn Mexico. Although beets and other plants in the Chenopodiaceae family are the preferred targets, leafhoppers will resort to sampling tomatoes and other plants in the Solanaceae family. They feed on plants by piercing fresh leaf surfaces and sucking on plant fluids during long mouthparts on their heads, inoculating the plant with the virus since they feed. Affected leaves curl inward and disappear. Veins may appear as purple lines or the entire leaf may change color. Since the leafhoppers begin with tender new development, the disease spreads in the top of the plant, hence the title curly top.

Tomato Big Bud

Tomato big bud is brought on by a viresent agent transported, or vectored, by the beet leafhopper. The disease is brought on by a phytoplasma organism to a wide range of crops. Buds swell and produce small, misshapen fruit. Leaves are distorted and pale yellow-green in color, on stunted stems. Major bud but isn’t common in most regions since it takes large populations of leafhoppers to acquire a foothold in areas so succeeding generations can feed on affected plants.

Leafhopper Control

Rumors might not function as leafhoppers’ favorite targets, but it just takes one wayward, hungry leafhopper to spread disorder to a plant. One option for handling where leafhopper populations increase in late spring, might be to plant tomatoes far away from favored plants like beets, peppers and eggplant. Where leafhoppers are present but backyard space is limited, companion planting marigolds (Tagetes spp.) Or pungent plants, such as geraniums (Pelargonium spp.) , might repel the bugs. In rainy years, when leafhopper residents mushroom, systemic pesticides containing carbaryl, imidacloprid or dinotefuran may help control residents.

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Lemon trees grace the home garden with their visual jewels of vivid yellow, citrus fruit that offer as much in flavor as they do in beauty. However, due to a variety of problems, from easily avoided physiological issues to serious diseases, trees may not develop to their entire potential. Monitor your lemon trees closely to prevent slowed or stunted development as well as the poor fruiting that often follows.

General Care

Providing optimal attention to lemon trees is essential for proper growth. Well-maintained plants have a greater ability to avoid and overcome health problems when compared with stressed plants. Lemon trees thrive in regions that provide sunlight. These trees endure a number of soil conditions and also have “a reputation of tolerating very infertile, very poor soil,” explains Purdue University Agriculture. But keep moist, well-drained land with a pH of around 5.5 to 6.5 for greatest growth. Avoid waterlogged conditions, as standing water decreases tree health.

Factors

Become knowledgeable about the lemon tree’s growth habits to avoid any confusion about whether the tree is growing well. Lemon trees usually grow to a height of 10 to 20 feet. Determine the ultimate height of the particular species and cultivar you’ve got. Until mature, these fruiting trees must grow at a pace of 4 to 12 inches per year. Leaves measure roughly 2 1/2 to 4 1/2 inches long, while fruit steps 2 3/4 to 4 3/4 inches long.

Physiological Issues

Growth problems may result from inferior cultural maintenance or uncontrollable cultural difficulties. High chlorine or sodium, as an example, may result in yellowed leaves and stunted development. Avoid growing lemon trees near swimming pools to prevent chlorination problems. Send a soil sample to a testing lab and create any suggested amendments. Fertilizing according to the laboratory’s suggestions helps prevent a nutrient imbalance. Proper watering is also critical, as drought and over-watering may both result in exponential development of roots and above-ground portions of the tree. Water lemon trees when the top layer of soil feels dry to the touch, as a rule of thumb.

Diseases

Citrus greening is a bacterial infection which leads to isolated, yellowed areas on citrus trees. Spread by psyllids, this disease leads to dieback, defoliation, fruit fall, foul-tasting fruit and stunted growth. Speak to a county extension instantly because this disease is not yet widespread in the United States or California, as of 2012. Natural enemies, such as lady beetles, feed the psyllids that regulates the disease. Moreover, preventive sprays of a pesticide containing the active ingredient imidacloprid may provide control. Stubborn disease, brought on by the phytoplasma Spiroplasma citri, leads to stunted growth of the fruit and tree in addition to reduced or non-existent lemon yield. Remove and destroy trees, replacing them with healthy lemon trees.

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Watching the antics of birds hopping on feeders and battling over seed is one of the numerous reasons to feed wild birds. Regrettably, if you choose the incorrect seed or don’t follow good feeding habits, then you may get a mess of weeds around your feeders. Birds know what they enjoy and will choose through seed mixtures to obtain what they want, leaving the discarded seeds to sprout. Choosing the proper seed may keep your garden tidy as you continue to feed your avian visitors.

No Waste Mixes

Most wild bird mixtures found in shops that don’t specialize in birdseed include an abundance of milo and millet. When some birds such as juncos and sparrows love millet, a number of other species will choose through, attempting to get to other items in the mix. Few birds eat milo. Since the birds choose through the mix, millet and milo fall to the floor and will eventually sprout into grass-like weeds. To avoid this, see a shop that specializes in wild bird food and decide on a mix specially designed for that which the birds in your area favor. The food may cost more, but considerably less will make its way to the earth to become a weed.

Sunflower Chips

Sunflower chips are hulled sunflower seeds which are chopped into bits. With the kernel hulled and chopped, the seed won’t sprout. Sunflower chips make an excellent feeder alternative since they’re one of the greatest seed choices by a variety of birds such as jays, woodpeckers, finches, grosbeaks and chickadees.

Cracked Corn

Cracked corn is composed of dried corn that’s split into bits. Unlike whole kernels of corn, the bits of cracked corn can no longer sprout. Jays, doves, quail, sparrows and even ducks are attracted to feeders which have cracked corn.

Nyjer Thistle

Though it appears to be a weed, nyjer thistle isn’t the standard thistle with the purple blossom that gardeners attempt to keep out of their yards. Nyjer thistle is a small black seed preferred by birds such as finches, juncos and pine siskins. Quality nyjer thistle is typically heated so it won’t sprout. In case a few plants do sprout, they seldom grow to a mature plant in North America.

Feeding Tips

Feeding your birds sensibly helps reduce seed waste and therefore can help control any likelihood of grass or other weeds growing under your feeders. Utilizing a bird feeder with a seed-catching tray under helps capture any discarded seed before it hits the ground. Providing one type of seed in each feeder can keep birds from picking through mixtures to come across the kind of seed they enjoy. In addition to seed, set out fruit, suet and hummingbird feeders to attract a wide selection of wild birds.

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If yours is a home that does not have a forced air heating system, like residences with hot water radiator heat or wall registers, retrofitting a central air conditioning system can be a tough and costly proposition. In residences with forced-air heat ducts, you can install a central AC system and also spread cool air through the same ducts used for heating. But if your home lacks the heat ductwork, there are still ways to enjoy the advantages of centralized air.

Install AC Ducts

1 choice is to put ducts only for air conditioning. At retrofitting central air conditioning in houses with no existing forced air heating ducts, the evaporator coil and blower are installed in the loft area and rotating sheet-metal cooling ducts have been run into ceiling registers installed in minute- and also first-floor rooms. The condensing unit is installed outdoors, attached to the evaporator by sealed tube.

Duct Design

Normally, AC ducts for second floor rooms have been run across the loft floor and plunge down between loft floor joists to ceiling registers. In better than 90 percent of residences, air-conditioning ducts feeding first-floor rooms could be run down through second-floor closets to ceiling registers on the first floor. Most metal ducts are rotating, measuring 12 by 6 inches or 10 by 8 inches, so they don’t take up closet space.

Ductless Split System

Another choice is to install a ductless split program. In such systems, the condensing unit is set up outdoors, but feeds multiple evaporator fan components installed in numerous rooms. The evaporator units, installed one room, are connected into the condensing unit by sealed tube that carries the refrigerant. Every single evaporator has its own fan and thermostat, enabling you to set cooling levels separately for each room. These systems could be up to 30 percent more costly than traditional centralized cooling but are also good when you only want to cool specific rooms. Ductless systems that both heat and cool, are also available, which makes this a high-efficiency solution for complete climate control.

High-Velocity AC

You may also choose a high-velocity central air system. These systems utilize traditional heaters and evaporators but have a special compressor which distributes cooled air at high pressure and velocity through small, flexible, insulated ducts that can easily be run in which you want them, without having to rip out walls or ceilings. The insulated ducts are often as small as 2 inches in diameter, and also can provide cooled air to a room in up to 1,200 cubic feet per minute. The small ducts connect to curved chamber air outlets about 5 inches in diameter. Baffles in the ducts decrease noise.

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Installing a new roof over an existing one, also called a *layover* or *nailover*, is frequently possible but not always the best choice. A correctly installed layover roof may look and operate and one installed after ripping the present roof and is typically more convenient and less costly. Although a lot of steel roof systems could be applied over an present roof, layovers are far more commonly done using asphalt shingles. **Pick a shingle style using the exact dimensions as those on your existing roof** to offer the best appearance.

Determine the Feasibility

Multiple layers of shingles may make it hard or impossible for the nails to penetrate the decking adequately, causing shingles to ignore or don’t seal properly. The additional burden of multiple layers may also be more than the roof facilitates could bear. Inspect your attic to get cracked or sagging rafters — a sign that a layover can cause much more damage. If you currently have multiple layers of shingles or signs of damage to your roof supports, you must prevent a layover. Some producers will not cover product failure if their shingles have been installed as a layover and some municipalities limit the amount of layers you may have.

Inspect the state of Your present Roof

The state of the existing roof is critical. The roof should be in sound condition without any unrepaired leaks. • Stand at street level and look for any dips or sags from the roof. This can indicate issues with the wooden deck or rafters supporting it. • Walk around the roof to find out if there are any places that feel soft or mushy. Soft spots are signs your decking needs to be mended or replaced. Whether there are a lot of soft spots, it is typically best to prevent a layover. • Look for shingles that have curled or cupped. You can trim or remove those shingles prior to applying a layover, however, your new roof will not be as even-looking and might have difficulties sealing properly.

Install Drip Edge

Drip border, or border steel, is a piece of steel that goes approximately 0.75 inch past the roof’s edge to channel runoff into your gutters. To install it, slide the flat, broad flange under the first row of shingles as much as it will go. Check to see that the bottom border is positioned over the gutter; if not, adjust the flange under the shingles until the drip edge is correctly positioned. Use a felt-tip marker to make a short line on the drip edge to signal appropriate position. Eliminate the drip edge and apply a thin strip of roofing cement at the very top border over the line you indicated and slide the drip edge back under the shingles into the mark you made. You may also use roofing nails to secure the roof edge.

Install Starter Strips

The first row of shingles is called a starter strip. You can either purchase starter strips or create your own by cutting shingles to dimension. To create your own, use the apartment, solid part of the shingles and a heavy duty knife knife to cut pieces that are around 5 inches wide. Place the top of each starter shingle firmly against the base of the shingle immediately over it and even with the eaves, then nail it into position. Use 1.5- or 1.75-inch roofing nails. Your second row of shingles must be cut to 10 inches wide. Butt these against the base of the old roof’s third row and nail into position.

Flashing and Additional Rows of Shingles

Flashing must be installed properly around elements, like vents or chimneys, that penetrate the roof, in addition to in valleys where different areas of the roof match. When doing a layover, the depth of the layers may make it hard to utilize any method aside from steel valley flashing. To install, line the valley with underlayment secured using roofing cement. Cut the flashing into 6- to 8-foot lengths to help prevent buckling following setup. Apply roofing cement into the rear of the flashing, then nail it into position, keeping all nails a minimum of 6 inches in the flashing’s centerline. The borders of the valley flashing should be under the new shingles. Continue installing the remaining shingles by butting each new row snugly against the base of the present row of shingles immediately above and nailing into position.

Finishing the work

Depending on the kind of shingles you’ve chosen, you might want to use a special sort of shingling substance, called *hip and ridge*, to cover the summit where your roof planes meet. If you are using three-tab shingles, however, you may cut shingles to produce your own. Use a heavy-duty knife knife to separate the shingles into thirds by cutting them at each tab. Mark the middle of each section and use a compass to mark 30-degree angles along the sides of each section from the end to the middle line. Cut along these marks to make a piece that looks like a trapezoid topping a rectangle. Folding each piece over the ridge and nail it into position. Nails must be set in the trapezoidal region formed by cutting the angles. Overlap each piece so the section without angles covers the trapezoidal location.

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Biting into pieces of freshly picked, ripe, juicy strawberries in the garden is one of the great pleasures of life. You can’t help feel depressed and disappointed if your tomato plants wilt and the fruits rot on the vine. Common bacterial diseases, such as early blight, late blight and fusarium wilt, cause wilting and rotting of tomatoes. Tomatoes can also decay as a result of pests, diseases and ethnic problems. A common environmental issue encountered by home gardeners is blossom end rot.

Early Blight

Early blight on tomatoes is characterized by black and brown spots on stems, leaves and fruit. The fungus Alternaria solani causes early blight. The spots often form concentric circles and might develop a yellow surrounding area. Spots first appear on the older or lower leaves. The disease spreads from the bottom to the top of the plant. Overhead watering and cool, humid conditions favor disease progression and might cause severe damage to plants and fruits. To control or slow the disease, remove dead, infected foliage once you first visit it and then mulch around the tomato crops. Another way to control disease is to apply a copper fungicide every seven to 10 days.

Late Blight

The fungus Phytophthora infestans causes late blight on tomatoes, potatoes and other vegetables. The Irish potato famine illustrates the serious damage that this fungus may inflict. Late blight on tomatoes causes irregular, grayish green, purple or dark brown spots on stems and leaves. Areas expand and spread quickly and involve the emerging fruit. At times, whitish mould, containing the fungal spores, forms on the underside of infected leaves. Fruits develop brown and black lesions but stay firm. Late blight spreads rapidly during periods of high humidity combined with warm temperatures. The disease can destroy tomato crops within days. Remove contaminated plants and all plant debris near healthy plants to prevent the spread of this disease. Avoid overhead watering since it might help spread the disease.

Fusarium Wilt

Fusarium wilt impacts all parts of the tomato plant and is brought on by the soil-dwelling fungus Fusarium oxysporum. The disease starts with yellowing of leaf, usually on just 1 side of this plant. Wilting can spread to the whole plant even when sufficient soil moisture is available. Cutting open infected comes shows brown streaks. The disease blocks the transfer of water and nutrients from the roots to the rest of the plant. Although it is hard to rid the soil of fusarium wilt fungus, then you might succeed in case you solarize the soil. Solarization is a technique that increases soil temperature. It’s best to grow tomato varieties resistant to fusarium wilt if you know your dirt harbors the fusarium fungus. Tomato plants resistant to fusarium wilt are marked with one or more “F” on the tag.

Blossom End Rot

When isolating spots kind on the blossom end of ripening tomatoes, the condition is known as “blossom end rot.” It can start out as a small place, but it soon takes over almost all of the fruit. Blossom end rot is not caused by a pathogenic organism — it is brought on by environmental conditions that result in reduced levels of calcium and water in the fruit and plant. Tomatoes grown in sandy or low-moisture soils are prone to blossom end rot. Blossom end rot won’t be treated with any pesticide since it is not caused by a pathogenic organism. Avoid blossom end rot by checking the soil moisture of your planted tomatoes and water them when the soil gets too dry, but do not overwater. Adding tomato crust can help prevent blossom end rot by keeping your plants free and vigorous of nutrient deficiencies.

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Paneling is one of the fastest ways we know of to add appeal and attention to the walls and ceilings in any room. However, if dark, manly dens and gullible libraries come into mind when you believe paneling, consider again. Rich wood paneling is ideal for creating that formal look, but if bright, airy and open are adjectives you’re attempting to conjure, don’t count paneling out. A coating of paint, or a few coats, can transform that wood into something which’s ideal for your property.

Borges Brooks Builders

If you like the look of white but occasionally find it dull, painted paneling can be an ideal enhancement. The white is sleek, clean and shiny, while the grooves at the paneling add interest and dimension, creating a space with loads of character.

Wendi Young Design

For the charm of painted paneling without committing to the entire room, put it in one spot. The paneling over this mattress adds focus to the focal point of the space and creates striking comparison to the walls surrounding it.

Whitten Architects

Painted paneling is a shore-house basic and, if you inquire, looks fabulous in colors that reflect the outside. Blues and greens conjure the sea beyond the window.

Whitten Architects

To get a space that has floor-to-ceiling paneling, making contrast with paint adds much charm. We’re huge fans of a blue that mirrors the sky.

Julianne Stirling

Paneling placed vertically and horizontally within this space adds visual attention and leaves the space feel more cozy.

Warmington & North

In newer houses, we love the way painted paneling creates the look of age. Coupled with tasteful decor, it is sophisticated and chic but can be equally relaxed when complemented with more casual decor.

Linda McDougald Design | Postcard from Paris Home

We love the architectural detail positioned behind the mattress — the ideal background for a gorgeous headboard.

Stonebreaker Builders & Remodelers

To get a look that is not as dim as stained but has more of a presence than plain white, tan is a good compromise. It is still warm but much less formal and looks terrific counter with accessories.

More:
How to Update Cozy Wood Paneling
Beautiful Details: Wainscoting and Paneled Walls

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