If you are developing a juniper cultivar known as “Spartan” (Juniperus chinensis “Spartan”), you are probably knowledgeable about its tall, narrow shape. A Chinese juniper, this variety reaches 15 to 20 feet tall, but only grows 4 to 5 feet wide. Although this evergreen does not require routine pruning, a “Spartan” juniper that’s becoming too tall or contains some spreading branches near its top can be cut back successfully, as long as you follow several guidelines.

Selecting the best Time

“Spartan” juniper grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 10, getting partially dormant in winter, when its growth slows. It is possible to do a small amount of light pruning at any given time, but in case you are intending to do major pruning, it’s ideal to postpone this until early spring, just before the dormant buds open and new growth appears. This takes advantage of the new flush of spring growth that starts soon after your pruning semester, while also letting you remove any divisions damaged or broken during winter storms. Avoid doing any major pruning in late summer.

Trimming the very best

To trim the surface of a “Spartan” juniper, cut the terminal end of each branch to remove the final, or apical, bud. This encourages development of new side shoots, encouraging the plant to become more full and giving it a powerful shape. Junipers are typical evergreens and can not produce new growth from brownish, leafless branches, known as “dead wood.” When pruning, you can cut the branches back badly, but make sure that you leave some green leaf on the plant and do not cut so drastically that only dead wood stays, because this can destroy the shrub. To prune the top back more gently, trim back about one-third of those divisions in the initial pruning semester, then repeat this again during the next two seasons to complete the job. Sterilize your pruning blades by wiping them with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol between cuts. This helps prevent the spread of plant diseases.

More Trimming and Tying

After you prune back the very top of a “Spartan” juniper, watch the new growth to decide if you need to shape the tree more. When side branches appear, you can prune back any that protrude outside the main canopy to help preserve the juniper’s narrow, columnar form. If only a few branches need trimming, you can do it at any given moment. For more major trimming, delay until the next spring. If branches start to lean away from the main portion of the plant since they produce new development, it is possible to keep these in position by using soft ties or plastic straps, which you can buy in nurseries, anchoring them into main branches to train them into position. Leave these in place until tender new growth strengthens, which can take a year or two.

Giving Extra Care

Junipers are usually tough shrubs that need little special care, tolerating drought and other tough conditions well. But after providing a “Spartan” juniper a major pruning, provide the plant some additional care. Make sure it gets about 1 inch of water weekly, including water from rain. Water the plant during dry spells, especially during the summer. Insert a 3- to 4-inch layer of organic mulch under the canopy to help conserve soil moisture and keep down weeds. Do not allow the mulch touch or rest against the plant’s back, since this can encourage infection and decay.

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Understanding your soil’s pH and the best way to handle it are secrets to successful gardening. Soil pH affects nutrients that control plant health and growth. If your garden soil tested at 7.5 pH, it is just above the neutral point of 7.0. Before you begin adjusting soil pH, understand what your soil results imply for your own garden and its plants. Depending upon your gardening objectives, that soil pH might be precisely where you need it.

Interpreting Soil Results

When thinking about soil test results, don’t believe in absolutes. Several factors affect pH, such as seasonal variations. Soil type and composition, biological activity, organic matter, soil salts and soil moisture all affect your results. A dried-out sample yields different results than the same sample moist. Variability comes with the territory. The pH scale runs from 0.0 to 14.0, with pH under 7.0 considered progressively more acidic and pH above that mark deemed increasingly alkaline. The University of California advises the accuracy of soil pH readings is either plus or minus 0.5 pH units. In other words, your 7.5 soil might be anywhere between 7.0 and 8.0.

Realizing Soil pH

The best soil pH level for the lawn is based upon the plants you want to grow. For plants to utilize soil nutrients — naturally present or added through fertilizers — the enzymes have to stay soluble. Because pH changes, reactions happen that limit a plant’s ability to absorb certain nutrients. Many components, such as iron and iron, stay most accessible plants in low-pH, acidic soils. Plants that need those components in bigger quantities suffer in alkaline soil, but those plants are exceptions. Most plant nutrients reach their peak access in near-neutral soil pH. That range from 6.5 to 7.5 is the perfect soil pH for most plants.

Lowering Soil pH

Common garden clinics like adding organic matter and using fertilizers lower soil pH gradually. Base major changes only on recommendations from a respectable soil laboratory. Products and amounts depend on your soil’s specifics. Incorporating elemental sulfur, for example, in the top 6 inches of soil at a speed of 1/2 pound per 100 square feet lowers pH from 0.5 unit at loamy soil. Sandy soils, however, only need one-third that amount, while clay soils may take nearly double. Overdoing pH adjustments can leave soil toxic, so follow recommendations carefully. Wear protective clothing, such as gloves and safety instinct, whenever utilizing substances, and prevent all contact with exposed skin.

Living With Alkalinity

Trying to remain naturally alkaline soil in acidic pH ranges is an endless battle. Alkalinity, typical in arid regions, comes as indigenous stone weathers and low precipitation fails to clean elements away. These natural processes always replenish soil’s alkalinity. Think container growing to get plants that require acidic soil. For many other plants, 7.5 pH soil might be perfect. Several drought-tolerant plants, dry-region natives and Mediterranean natives prefer slightly alkaline soil pH. Align your lawn plans with your soil, and you’ll jump the need for constant soil alterations.

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Bulbs grow well in containers, including wooden boxes and raised beds. Since lights need well-drained dirt, growing in raised containers is actually better for several species than growing in the ground; it makes it easier to control the soil quality. Containers also protect bulbs from being consumed by burrowing rodents.

Container Requirements

Containers used for bulbs need to have drainage holes. In case a wooden box has no drainage holes, drill a few in the bottom of the container before planting. The size of container is dependent upon the type and number of lights being implanted. As a rule of thumb, smaller bulbs need smaller containers and larger bulbs require more growing space. Bulbs that flower at different times can be planted at several levels within the planting box, and a box that’s 7 to 8 inches deep can accommodate two layers of lights. A pot 14 to 20 inches round will probably hold about 20 to 30 bulbs, based on the size and species.

Wooden Containers

Wooden boxes and containers work well for growing bulbs. The only disadvantage is that timber containers will eventually decay. Most untreated wood lasts at least 2 or three growing seasons. Redwood and cedar are rot-resistant, therefore growing boxes made from these forests will continue longer. Pressure-treated timber additionally has a longer lifespan, but you should be careful to avoid woods that were treated with toxic chemicals like creosote. Another option is to line the planting box with plastic to maintain growing roots and moist dirt from invading the timber. Just make certain that there are holes in the plastic that line with the timber box drainage holes so water won’t accumulate in the bottom of the container.

Bulb Planting Tips

In wooden containers utilized for growing bulbs, use lightweight potting soil mixture that drains quickly but still holds enough water to keep the roots moist. A commercial potting mixture works well enough, but if you want to mix your own potting soil specifically for bulbs, combine 2 parts good garden compost, 2 components regular potting mixture, 1 part perlite and 1 part coarse sand. Planting thickness for bulbs varies depending on the species, and instructions will be printed on the packages. Keep about 1/2 inch of distance between every bulb when planting multiple lights in a container.

Choosing Bulbs

Bulbs that need well-drained dirt and don’t spread quickly are the best for growing in wooden containers. Dwarf varieties of iris (Iris spp.) Grow well in pots because they need well-drained dirt. They’re hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, based on the species. For spring blooms, daffodils (Narcissus spp.) Also do quite well in pots. Fragrant varieties are available, and they come in a wide variety of colors. Avoid daffodils described as “naturalizing,” because they’ll spread too much for most pots. Daffodils are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 9.

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Also called Mexican heather or elfin herb, false heather (Cuphea hyssopifolia) rises from 8 inches to 2 feet tall with thin glossy green leaves 1/2 to 1-inch long. Tiny trumpet-shaped flowers about 4/10 of an inch round look in the axils of these leaves, usually in shades of purple, though white and pink varieties are available. Native to Mexico, Central America and the southeast U.S., false heather is perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 to 11. Its compact size also makes it suitable to be used as a houseplant.

Light and Temperature to False Heather

Although fictitious heather can tolerate full sun, the color of its foliage reportedly remains a richer green in partial shade. Consider putting it on a windowsill where it will receive approximately four hours of direct sunlight per day, preferably in the morning or day to protect it in the most intense beams of midday. If the plant’s foliage still appears faded under these conditions, move it to your place in bright, indirect light. To avoid worrying your false heather, pick a location where the temperature doesn’t fall below 50 degrees Fahrenheit nor rise above 75 degrees during the light of day.

Water and Fertilizer for False Heather

Keep your plant at a well-drained all-purpose type potting soil, and water it if the surface of the soil feels dry to the touch, never allowing that dirt to become soggy or to dry out entirely. Feed your fictitious heather monthly from spring through autumn with a bloom booster type plant food such as 15-30-15, mixing 1/2 teaspoon of its own crystals using 1 gallon of water. Refrain from prying the plant through the winter months.

Pruning and Pests of False Heather

To keep fictitious heather streamlined, cut it back by approximately half in spring. Although not usually affected by insects, false heather can suffer from spider mites if allowed to dry out too often. Suspect the existence of these insects if the leaves have a mottled appearance and seem to be coated with spider webs. To see to the mites, mix 1 1/4 tablespoons of insecticidal soap concentrate with 1 quart of water. Spray the plant thoroughly, covering both of the surfaces and undersides of its leaves, after a week for 2 weeks.

Lifespan and Reproduction of False Heather

False heather generally is a plant that is fleeting and might begin to deteriorate following one to two decades. You can spread it readily, however, by recovering seedlings that have sown themselves beside the mother plant. The smallest branches of fictitious heather often root where they break on the ground as well. If so, you could be able to rejuvenate the whole plant by cutting the original stems back to just 2 inches above the ground.

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There’s no better, one-size-fits-all recommendation for fertilizing corn (Zea mays) that matches all soil conditions. Some soils contain plant nutrients. The means to ascertain fertilizing needs would be to get your soil tested. There are a few general recommendations that are applicable to nitrogen-loving corn. Water-soluble granular fertilizer is recommended.

Fertilizing Basics

Corn is an annual which will rise in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11. Corn is wind pollinated, so it’s better for the home gardener to plant three or four rows of corn in a plants in circle or a hill rather than a row. Should you fertilize in a squarefoot, hill or circle mulch recommendations in feet are more helpful than those for duration of row. After you apply fertilizer always water the dirt.

Fertilizing Before Planting

If you do not have your soil tested, operate 6 pounds of water fertilizer before you plant the seed. If you are calculating by square feet of garden, operate 2-3 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer 3 to 4 inches deep to each 100 square feet before planting corn. Until or plow 25 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer to the upper 6 inches of 1,000 square feet.

Fertilizing Young Corn

When your plants have grown four or five fully expanded leaves, apply 1/2 into 3/4 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer no closer than two inches from the bottom of the plants and then rake it

Fertilizing Maturing Corn

Corn needs a lot of nitrogen. Pale green leaves indicate a lack of nitrogen in corn. Add 1/2 pound of urea, 46-0-0 mulch, to each 100 square feet of dirt when corn plants have eight to 10 leaves. Scatter the fertilizer 6 inches in the sides of the plants and water it in the soil. Repeat this with 3/4 pound of urea as soon as your plants grow. Another way to deal with the nitrogen need of corn would be to add 1 1/2 pounds of ammonium nitrate, 34-0-0 once the plants are 8 to 12 inches tall. Sprinkle this at least two inches from the bottom of the plants and then rake it two inches deep.

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An African violet (Saintpaulia spp.) Direct sunlight is harmful, although blooms best when climbing in bright light. African violets include a range of perennial plants usually grown as houseplants, though Saintpaulia ionantha and other forms grow outside in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 11 and 12. Growing requirements and excessive color prevent an African violet. With conditions and maintenance violets can blossom.

Turn on the Lights

As soon as it receives eight to 12 hours of bright light a day, an African violet blooms. If your non-flowering African purple’s stalks are long and its leaves are thin and dark green, it is not getting lighting. Place the plant about 3 feet from a west- or window, or put it. Tubes offer the finest artificial lighting for violets and use significantly less power than incandescent bulbs. 2 tubes suspended 12 to 15 inches above the plants for 15 hours a day provide sufficient light to promote flowering. Turn off the lights at night because African violets require eight hours of darkness to promote flowering.

Cool Down, or Warm Up

Excessively cold or hot temperatures stop an African violet from booming. African violets grow best in warm, even temperatures and are plants. Day temperatures from 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temperatures from 65 to 70 degrees are perfect. African violets growing in high temperatures stop flowering, and chilled plants become stunted, turn dim and sometimes die. Moving plants that are chilled to a area prevents further damage, but recovery is slow. Remove from windowsills through the nighttime, or put a sheet of paper to offer some protection.

Improve Humidity

Conditions encourage an African violet . African violets blossom and grow best in high temperatures. Place a tray of small pebbles, perlite or sand below the container of the plant and fill the tray with water. As the water evaporates the humidity from the atmosphere around the plant increases. Add water to the tray. Since this can cause roots, do not endure an African violet directly. Water your plant once the soil surface is dry and leave it to drain thoroughly. Water is usually required by african violets growing in clay pots more often than plants in plastic containers.

Fertilize Your African Violet

Fertilizer is needed by A lava . Other signs of nutrient levels include the leaves in the base of the crown spinning light yellowish or green. Fertilize African violet plants with a 7-7-7 African violet fertilizer diluted at a rate of 7 to 10 drops per gallon of lukewarm water. Water the plants with the fertilizer solution instead of water. The instructions of manufacturer might vary, so follow the instructions . Over-fertilization is a problem in violets. Plants create tight centers and rusty-colored leaves.

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French impressionist artists generated painterly canvases. A plant prized for its delicate, gray-green leaves and fragrant, purple blooms, lavender (lavandula) is a shrub that also adds visual appeal into the California backyard or home. Based upon the number, lavender is hardy through U.S. Department of Agriculture zone 9, which makes it appropriate for the Bay Area. If you reside in fog-prone San Francisco or should you desire to enhance your decor as you fill the air with a perfume, lavender may also be grown inside with some concerns.

Tug gardening gloves to protect your hands and different saucer and the backyard pot — you will reassemble them. Fill your garden pot with equal parts of compost, potting soil and sand or grit that is coarse and mix them. Lavender grows best in well-drained soils that maintain a pH between 6 and 8, so this trifecta will offer the optimum climate for your plant.

So that the root ball is covered by soil dig a hole deep enough for the plant. As possible dig, transfer the soil that is displaced to the saucer.

Remove making sure your new pot is roughly five to 10 times bigger than its original pot’s size, letting it the room to grow. The Munstead variety is smaller and more compact than some its lavender cousins, which makes it ideal for an indoor environment. Pick a different rainbow variety for indoor planting, if it is not easily available.

Put the lavender plant at the center of the hole and fill around the plant together with all the soil that is displaced. Mound the soil around the stem to hold it in place.

Set the lavender in a sunny window in which it will receive up to seven to eight hours of sunshine a day — southern or western exposure windows and fit the pot are ideal for growing indoor blossoms. Lavender is also a sun worshipper, so organize a light over the plant so that it will receive a sufficient amount of light, as in San Francisco, if sunlight is evasive. If you live where sunlight is much more plentiful, sufficient sunlight is received by experiment without the mild to ascertain if the lavender.

Water the plant and promote root development. Stop watering once water runs from the drain hole to the saucer. Lavender flourishes in conditions that are somewhat dry, so it is imperative not to overwater; watering once a week is sufficient to promote wholesome growth.

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Ground cover crops play an important function in the garden. Characterized with their low-growing forms and capability to strangle weeds with a carpet of vegetation, soil covers provide several benefits to almost any outdoor space. There are an enormous variety of ground cover plants readily available, often with unique growing requirements which range from full sun and dry conditions to moist soil and color. Pay attention to choosing a variety that is employed on your location and hardiness zone.

Some soil cover plants can be vigorous growers in certain growing conditions (borderline invasive, really), so be certain to do your homework and choose the necessary precautions. This can indicate segregating areas of ground cover and lawn, since voracious ground cover plants can migrate into the bud and take over. That said, as soon as you select the right floor cover and establish the right site, the opportunities to create a truly striking landscape appear.

Listed below are some of my favourite ways to use ground covers in the garden.

Plan-it Earth Style

Between pavers. This is most likely the most frequent use of floor covers, and rightly so, since it’s very effective. Whether it’s a casual approach with irregular stone slabs or a modern high-contrast aesthetic with modular pavers, floor covers fill in the spaces between stonework and generate a surface that is visually appealing and functional.

When selecting a floor cover to your paving project, be certain to choose a specimen that can handle traffic. One of my favorites is brass buttons (Leptinella squalida, USDA zones 4 to 10). As can be found in this case, Leptinella is a vigorous grower and forms a dense carpet of miniature fern-like foliage that is evergreen in temperate climates.

More: Plants to Your Pathway

About trees. Many trees have a unique form to their branches and trunk — a feature that should be emphasized. Rather than planting shrubs and perennials around the bottom of a feature tree, try integrating a carpet of ground cover that will enable the main form to be valued. Mosses such as Irish moss (Sagina subulata, zones 4 to 8) also form interesting mounds that bloom with tiny flowers in midsummer.

Garden Mentors

In rock gardens. Rock gardens are unique growing surroundings, and not all plants will appreciate the arctic conditions. Besides alpine plants, there are a number of ground covers that flourish in these conditions and can create interesting, low-maintenance and mini gardens.

Knawel cushion (Scleranthus biflorus, zones 9 to 11) is a truly fascinating noun which will likely become a feature in your rock garden. This slow growing, mound-forming plant gives a dense carpet of green foliage that will slowly creep over the surrounding rocks. Ensure the soil is well drained, as knawel cushion is prone to rotting with an excessive amount of water.

Meissner Landscape, Inc

In acidic soil. Planting around the foundation of large conifers can be hard due to the acidic, depleted soil and low-light conditions. Most ground covers won’t do nicely in this situation, but there are frequently significant distances between shrubs and perennials that will gain from floor cover.

One plant that is up to the challenge is bugle weed (Ajuga reptens, zones 3 to 10), a rapidly spreading evergreen ground cover that makes a tight mat of leaves with flower spires in the early spring. It’s worth noting that Ajuga can be somewhat invasive and should be sited only in locations where it can be included.

Matt Kilburn

Around partitions and hardscape features. Some floor covers are nicely suited to areas of a site where the standard change is characterized by walls and other hardscape features. It can be difficult to incorporate these features into the landscape, due to their hard outlines comparison the aesthetic of the surrounding softscape features.

Baby’s tears (Soleirolia soleirolii, zones 9 to 11) is a versatile floor cover that is well suited to this situation, since it flourishes with hardly any soil present and develops over hardscape features with little or no assistance. Brick walls take on a very different appearance when they are blanketed in baby’s tears, also it’s likely to create the impression they have been there for centuries.

Matt Kilburn

As standalone capabilities. Every once in a while, you come across a very creative use of ground covers that makes for an interesting conversation piece in the garden. Last year I toured England, seeing some of the very influential gardens in the country and soaking up the layout inspiration.

Whilst exploring the various garden rooms in Sissinghurst Castle, I came across an intriguing feature tucked into the hedge lining the herb garden. A stone bench was adorned with a carpet of chamomile, forming a chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile spp) seat.

This type of feature was common in medieval gardens, and it can offer inspiration for aromatic floor covers in your own yard. Try Roman chamomile or English chamomile to get the best outcomes (they are equally low-growing varieties), or experiment with different varieties of low-growing floor cover, such as creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum, zones 4 to 8).

Read about some other Fantastic floor cover: Golden Creeping Jenny

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Summer’s long days and hot nights are fantastic for going outside and enjoying your garden. Finally, all of the work you have put in over the past season will be paying off, and you are able to relax and revel in the fruits of your labour. Unfortunately, you are likely not the only one who would like to appreciate your plot — there’s a veritable legion of nasty creatures waiting to spoil your outdoor plans and send you to the protection of your home.

In addition to all these unwelcome guests, but there are a range of beneficial garden insects. But how do you eliminate the bad guys and welcome the good guys? With just a little preparation and old-school understanding, you can accomplish this without pesticides or other substances that can damage you and your garden.

Below you will learn some of the more common insect threats to your garden and how you are able to persuade the bad bugs to depart on their own volition.

Rossington Architecture

4 Garden Pests and How to Remove Them

Mosquitoes. In many regions mosquitoes are a major issue in the summertime and can hinder outdoor activities. They thrive in regions with a normal water source and can multiply very quickly into big numbers if left unattended. All of your lawn’s water attributes should have motion on the surface of the water. Mosquito larvae can survive just in stagnant water, so if a pump is installed in a water feature, mosquito colonies are not as likely to survive. Adding fish into a pond is also a excellent way to fight mosquitoes, since they consume the larvae until they hatch. Goldfish, minnows and betta fish (also called Siamese fighting fish) are great options for controlling mosquitoes.

Ultimately, there are lots of plants you can add to your garden to help repel mosquitoes. Catnip is a natural mosquito repellent which develops in most regions within an easy-growing perennial. Marigolds also have a distinctive odor that is unbearable to mosquitoes. Try planting these annuals in pots around your patio and next to windows, and the odor will prevent mosquitoes from hanging around.

Kim Gamel

Wasps. As the summer winds on, wasps can turn into a major issue in the garden. These competitive carnivores have ruined many an outdoor dinner. Regrettably, vibrant-colored blooms can attract themso place plants which bloom in summer time away from sitting and dining areas. You could even deter wasps by placing out a bowl of crushed cloves on the table — the odor is offensive to wasps, and they will find someplace else to spend their time.

Ants. Depending on your geographical area, there are lots of types of ants that could make a home in your garden. Some ants are more difficult to eliminate than others. Luckily, the ants in Vancouver, where I reside, are rather simple to control.

As a guideline for many ants, concentrate on where they live and what they feed on to dissuade them from the garden. Ants don’t like the odor of cinnamon or mint, so if you are able to find the mound where the ants are coming from, sprinkle some cinnamon or go a potted mint plant to the region (mint should always be contained, since it’s an aggressively invasive plant) to make the region less hospitable to those little pests.

But ants are tenacious critters, and they might just move their home elsewhere in your garden. That’s why it’s also important to concentrate on their food resource. Among the means that ants gain sustenance is by”farming” the honeydew secreted out of aphids. They will even go so far as to move the aphids onto prime real estate on fruit trees and create elaborate methods for aphid farms to produce honeydew. And this leads us to our very last insect:

Aphids. Aphids can be tricky to eradicate, and the solution generally comes down to a combination of strategies. I’ve found blasting them off leaves with the hose are the most successful once they’ve infested a plant (versus soap-based sprays, which can often damage leaves), but there are also beneficial insects which can be introduced to your garden to manage an aphid problem.

The New York Botanical Garden

Two Beneficial Garden Insects and How to Welcome Them

Ladybugs. As mentioned before, aphids are a major issue in the garden. Ladybugs are a natural predator of aphids and can make a big difference to the health of your garden. An adult ladybug can eat around 1,000 aphids a day, so it’s easy to see how introducing this little helper can be useful. It is possible to buy ladybugs in many garden centers, but before you spend the money, be sure you take appropriate steps to help them stay around rather than flying away to your neighbor’s garden:
make certain there is not any insecticide on your crops, and scrutinize the leaves to see if there are aphids. Publish the ladybugs at night (they do not fly at night, so they’re more inclined to get established in your garden immediately) near the aphid-affected plants.Provide food resources other than aphids to make them feel at home. Ladybugs also eat pollen and love many flowering plants, such as marigolds, fennel, dill and geraniums.

Le jardinet

Mason bees. Bees and wasps frequently get thrown in precisely the same category of garden pests, but in reality, bees play an important role in the life cycle of crops. They also have more important things to concentrate on than you and your garden visitors, so that they aren’t going to bite or be a nuisance. Bees are avid pollinators and a crucial part of food crop production. International honeybee populations are in decline, so it’s more important than ever to help different types of bees take hold of their pollination jobs at hand.

That’s where mason bees come in. Introducing mason bees in to your scheme is as simple as sourcing a mason bee house and a few bee cocoons. Make sure there is also a water supply available so the bees can produce mud to package their cocoons into the mason bee house.

The cocoons hold dormant mason bees which come to life when the temperature warms in the spring (optimum conditions are if the noontime temperature is a minimum of 57 degrees Fahrenheit or 14 degrees Celsius). They can be kept in the refrigerator until the time is right to release them. Mason bees do not kind hives and live brief lives. Given the right conditions (flowering plants, a water supply and a home to put eggs in)they will work hard to pollinate your plants throughout the summer, along with the cocoons which are left behind in the mason bee house can be placed in containers in the refrigerator in the autumn and saved until next spring.

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4 Good Ways to Get Rid of Mosquitoes in Your Lawn

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Plants and pets aren’t always a perfect mix. A surprising variety of crops, such as landscape and houseplant favorites, are toxic and even deadly if Rover or Fluffy decides they are edible. Below are only a couple of the more than 300 plants which can result in problems. Speak to your vet or see the ASPCA’s website for a complete list.

That isn’t to say that these crops and your pets can’t coexist. Many cats and dogs won’t give these plants a second look. And even if they do get into them, the toxins may not bother them. I’m personally acquainted with a puppy who dug up and ate daffodil bulbs, the most poisonous part of the plant, and didn’t even suffer a stomachache.

Nevertheless, it’s far better to be safe than sorry. Keep an eye on your pets and their chewing tastes, especially puppies and kittens who can, and will, chew on everything. Consider using bitter apple or sour orange spray to discourage leaf chomping, installing ornamental fencing or wrap netting around larger specimens, and placing houseplants out of reach. And should you suspect that your pet has gotten into something it should not have, contact your vet or an emergency clinic straight away.

Remember that some of these very same plants are toxic to humans. While adults generally do not chomp their way through a nonedible backyard, it’s sensible to keep an eye on little children, especially if they explore the world by putting everything in their mouths.

Filmore Clark

The amaryllis (Hippeastrum) is a favorite holiday bloomer, but for cats and dogs it can cause a selection of issues, from gastrointestinal issues to tremors as well as anorexia. The botanical Amaryllis, more commonly called Naked Lady, is both toxic.

Amy Renea

Autumn crocus appears benign, but vomiting, diarrhea as well as organ damage can be the result of ingesting this innocuous-looking plant. Interestingly, creative mystery authors have used this as a poison of choice for people (see also foxglove below).

J. Peterson Garden Design

Azaleas as well as other rhododendron species can lead to vomiting, diarrhea, general weakness and, even if the dose is powerful enough, even death.

Barbara Pintozzi

The pyrethrins at chrysanthemums may help ward off pests, but they can also cause problems from the gastrointenstinal system.

Exteriorscapes llc

The most likely effects from nibbling on coleus are vomiting and diarrhea, but depression and anorexia can also result.

Le jardinet

Consuming cyclamens can lead to vomiting. The most toxic parts of the plant are the roots, but it’s ideal to maintain all parts from the mouths of cats and dogs.

Laughlin Design Associates, Inc..

A springtime display of daffodils and tulips is always welcome. However, the bulbs are a source of toxins which can cause everything from drooling to convulsions and circulatory issues.

The New York Botanical Garden

Dahlias can cause both gastrointestinal and skin problems, so they should be outside of the range of sensitive pets.

Kim Gamel

English ivy is famous both for landscaping and as a houseplant, but if digested it can cause vomiting, diarrhea, pain and excess salivation.

environmental notion

Considering that foxglove goes from the botanical name of Digitalis, also the title of a commonly used heart medication, it’s not surprising that it can lead to cardiac problems in people and pets. Other symptoms include gastrointestinal issues.

Le jardinet

Hellebores, a winter-garden favored, can cause abdominal pain, colic and depression in both dogs and cats if ingested.

Westover Landscape Design, Inc..

Although hydrangeas are backyard showstoppers, symptoms vary from oral irritation to gastrointestinal distress to depression for pets who eat them.

Jocelyn H. Chilvers

Numerous members of the lily family, such as Asiatic hybrids like those shown here, are highly toxic to cats, resulting in acute kidney damage even if just a little amount is consumed.

Barbara Pintozzi

Daylilies, although a member of a distinct botanical family, can also be toxic.

MTH Design Group

Oleanders are toxic to both people in pets. Problems vary from gastrointestinal troubles to compromised cardiac problems and death.

D for Design

The peace lily is an ideal houseplant. It’s happy in reduced light and is hard to kill. Regrettably, it can result in significant oral problems along with vomiting if swallowed by a cat or dog.

Scheer & Co..

While chewing consuming and on the leaves can cause swelling and irritation, the fantastic news is that most pothos look better when grown as hanging plants, from the reach of pets.

Constantine D. Vasilios & Associates Ltd

The sago palm is a dramatic houseplant and a favorite outdoor pick for temperate landscapes. The downside is that it’s toxic to pets. While the leaves can cause problems, the seeds, also called the nuts, are the most debatable and can lead to seizures and liver failure.

RLH Studio

The favorite umbrella tree, of the Schefllera genus, can cause intense oral irritation and vomiting if ingested.

Kaylovesvintage

Keep delicate sweet peas from experimenting pets, as they can cause tremors, seizures and, in acute cases, death.

Heffernan Landscape Design

The taxine at yew affects the central nervous system. Additionally, it can lead to cardiac failure.

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